Kanchenjunga Base Camp Trek, the eastern part of Nepal
The Kanchenjunga, or the five great treasures of the snow. Reaching the climax points of Kanchenjunga south and north base camps!
Kanchenjunga Base Camp Trek is one of the best treks of the eastern part of Nepal that traverses through the foothills of the eastern Himalayan giants of Kanchenjunga group, complemented by Makalu and Everest. The Kanchenjunga Base Camp Trekking area is home to a diverse range of tribal people living the continuation of centuries-old life and culture incomparable with the other part of Nepal.
Highlights:
Visit both base camps of the World’s 3rd highest Mount Kanchenjunga—a unique panorama involving scenic walks in the serene and misty forests. Visit the far end of the Nepal Himalayan ranges and capture its beauty. Enjoy walking on and off the beaten trails visited by only a few trekkers. Enjoy the wilderness, tranquillity and luxuriance of nature in the shades of Kanchenjunga. Explore the hidden hill villages of great cultural interest and values. Admire the grandeur of deep river valleys, massive glaciers and high mountains.
Trek Profile:
The Kanchenjunga region, the eastern end of the country, was first opened to organized trekking in 1988. An organized trek means a tented camping trekking service managed through a Travel Agency in Nepal. Before that, the only Westerners exploring the area were members involved in mountaineering expeditions.
Kanchenjunga means “Five Great Treasuries of the Snow” but has seven major summits. Everest and K2 are the only two other peaks taller than Kanchenjunga. To the locals, Kanchenjunga, 8585m., the third highest mountain in the World, is the abode of gods who bestow prosperity on their lands. Since the locals revere the mountain, mountaineers have a tradition not to stand on the actual summit. Therefore, all successful climbers have stopped just short of the top to honour the promise to the maharaja of Sikkim, made by the British Expedition Team Leader of the first successful attempt in 1955. However, the first attempt to climb this mighty mountain was made by Aleister Crowley in 1905.
The lowland areas are culturally rich but have few mountain views. There are shops, but limits to cater to the local inhabitants and not the tourist. Therefore, one must always carry all of one’s provisions into the region. Your last trek shopping chance will be at Kathmandu, but one can always shop like a local in Nepal.
The major ethnic groups inhabiting the Kanchenjunga region are the Limbu, who, along with Rai, belong to the broader Kiranti group. Limbu and Rai’s peoples have earned respect as fearless infantrymen -the Gorkhas, in the British and Indian Gorkha regiments. In fact, till some years ago, the only serving Victoria Cross holder in the British Army was a Limbu. The Limbus speak a language related to Tibetan Language and follows the Buddhist, Hindu and animist faith. The Limbus can be recognized from its cap (topi), which is identical to the national cap of Nepal, but the Limbus’ cap is taller and more colourful. If you pass through Limbu villages during the first Nepali month, you may witness celebrations, which mainly serve as an excuse for the younger generation to go courting. Being a community fun time offers excellent photo opportunities.
The more notable contribution of Limbu culture is the millet drink, Tongba, served in a unique wooden Tongba Jar. First, fermented millet seeds are put in a tall Wooden Jar and rinsed with boiling water. After 3-4 minutes of rinsing, the local brew is ready to drink with a straw-like bamboo pipe with tiny holes acting as the filter. The hot water is added repeatedly as long as you get a preferable test.
This epic journey requires a flight from Kathmandu to Taplejung or Kathmandu to Badrapur and a day’s drive to Taplejung, the trek starting point. Then this great three-week walking takes you through Chauki, Ghunsa, Khambachen, Lhonak and to Pangpema 5140m., the north side of Kanchenjunga Base Camp, the climax point of the first part of the second part of the trek, depending on the itinerary you are taking. The Kanchenjunga south base camp trek starts from Suketar and takes two weeks to reach the Yalung glacier and return.
An extended or combined itinerary lets us visit the Kanchenjunga South and North base camps, which takes us through some of the high passes, Mirgin La 4663 metres and Lapsang La 5160 metres, adding a bit of adventure to our lives.
Arrive in Kathmandu, customs and immigration formalities and claim your baggage, which takes some time. Upon exiting, the arrivals get a traditional welcome from the Happy Feet Nepal representative and transfer to the hotel. Reach the hotel and the rest of the day is free with the possibility of optional excursions (not included), but you can ask to organize any tours or stroll through its vibrant streets.
Kathmandu, the capital and heart of the country, with three medieval cities, symbolizes Nepal’s everything. Having lived through the several ruling dynasties of Buddhists and Hindus, the culture and society of Kathmandu Valley have evolved through time to give it more than a unique feature. Today it is an urban city, and still rapidly increasing, that has its ancient myths and, at the same time, is testimony to the greatness of people who have lived there for time immemorial.
Free day in Kathmandu in preparation for the trek, or one can join in our tour around Kathmandu at places of interest as Kathmandu city and the valley steeped with World Heritage Sites.
A 45-minute flight and a 3-hour drive.
Take a scenic flight from Kathmandu to Bhadrapur at low, warm areas of Nepal’s Far South East Terai belts. You will have the grand scenery of the Himalayan range, including Everest, Makalu and Kanchenjunga, during the 45 minutes flight. Upon landing at Bhadrapur airport, we take an exciting drive past farm villages and towns to reach cooler hilly country Illam for an overnight stop facing views of Kanchenjunga within its vast tea garden. The Ilam area is famous for tea production and its beautiful landscape facing a range of the eastern Himalayas in the backdrop of pine tree lines and a sea of tea plantations.
A 4-hour trek.
In the morning, we take another drive for a few hours to reach Sukhetar, the starting and ending point of our trek close to the main town of Taplejung. On arrival at Suketar, we get greeted by our camping crews, who arrived one day earlier to organize the start of the trek, including the porters and mules to transport the loads for the entire trek. From Sukhetar, the walk starts through a rhododendron-covered ridge to Surke Danda at 2585 metres, from where a trail leads to Pathibhara, one of the most revered goddess temples. From Surke, the trail descends through forests to Lali Kharka at 2225 metres.
A 7-hour trek.
Today’s morning walk leads downhill past terraced fields, inhabited by Limbu of Tembewa at 1885 metres, with whitewashed houses. Leave the Tembewa with a climb to a ridge and downhill, passing the villages of Shimu and Pokara before crossing a suspension bridge over Phawa Khola at 1435 metres. Cross Phawa Khola and climb steeply through the east side valley to Kunjuri at 1705 metres, another village of the Limbu people. The trail then turns left and climbs, passing wheat fields till a hill saddle requiring a long traverse to Kande Bhanjyang (also called Sinchebu Bhabjyang), a small Gurung farm village with several teashops. The village provides the first view of grand Kanchenjunga, Kyabru and Jannu.
A 6-hour trek.
Start walking over the ridge into the Kabeli River valley and descend steeply to Khesewa village at 1965 metres. Then continue an easy trail to cross several waterfalls to Nadewa Khola Bridge, and just beyond is Phundruwa of Phun Phun village. Cross a ridge and reach Yangpang with some teashops, a probable resting place. The trail climbs through a forest and past a huge waterfall and gullies, reaching Phumphe Danda at 1855 metres. A 30-minute descent to Phumphe village at 1785 metres and continue following a winding downhill past the farm area towards Khesewa Khola. Then cross a bridge over Khaksewa Khola and climb to Mamanke village at 1785 metres, a big town of Limbu people with several teashops and beautiful flat places to camp.
Another short-day trek, heading north, following the Kabeli Khola. The morning starts with a climb to a ridge and downhill to a stream to cross on a local bridge. A long switchback takes you up to the side valley marked with a Chorten (Buddhist Monument), a sign of entering a different cultural zone. Then descend, passing a tall cliff dropping continuously back to Kabeli Khola and follow the upstream to Yamphudin 1695 metres at the confluence of Amji Khola. Yamphudin is a big village lived by Sherpas, Limbus, Gurung and Rai with several basic accommodations and teashops. Yamphudin will be the last permanent human settlement until our adventure reaches the other side at Gunsa, overnight camp on a field or in the village’s backyard.
A 4-hour trek.
The morning walk starts crossing the east side and begins with a steep climb through a ridge between Kabeli and Amji Khola. The trail passes corn, millet and barley fields to Darachuk with some houses and further continues uphill, passing a meadow to Dhupi Danda, 2545 metres within open grassland; we are reaching higher. From Dhupi Danda, descend through the deciduous forest to Amji Khola.
A 5-hour trek.
From Amji, there is another tough climb through a forest full of bamboo to Chitre, 2925 metres, yak pastureland. Then, a steep climb for an hour within magnolia, rhododendron and bamboo forest to reach Lamite (Ramite) Bhanjyang 3,430m, a place with a single hut; Ramite means the scenic spot providing a grand view of Jannu Himal. Continue into alpine woodland full of birds, past a small pond and descend to an orchid-filled damp forest. Cross stream, open clearings, and follow upstream of Simbuwa Khola to cross to Torontan 3010 metres with several basic teashops.
A 5-hour trek.
The morning walk starts climbing through a rhododendron forest to Tsento Kang, a herders’ camp at 3360 metres; if you travel here in the spring, you will get them in full bloom in brilliant colours. Then continue through a beautiful forest with dripping moss and occasional mountain sceneries through the woods to Watha, another herders’ camp at 3375 metres. Further, continue an hour and reach a sacred site of the region with a cave (having a big boulder shaped like a serpent), fluttering praying flag and believed to be the home of the serpent deity. From here, in the upper valley, killing any animal is prohibited. Further continue passing forest area, leading to a riverbed, and then uphill to Tseram, a place with roofless bivouac caves, facing views of moraine fed from Yalung glacier and beyond with Kabru 7,353m and Talung peak 7,349m. Tseram is a meadow used for summer yak herding by the Sherpas of Yamphudin.
Today we come out of the tree line and reach a Junction leading to Mirgin La. After that, the trail goes on an alpine meadow sloping toward Rathong 6678 and Kabru Himal 6700m. Further, continue alongside a moraine of Yalung glacier to reach Yalung Bara at 4265 metres, a Yak pastureland and continue to Ramche, on a broad valley with a lake providing beautiful camping sites dominated by Rathong, a spectacular Peak. Ramche has a basic teashop, mainly serving the porters with trekking and mountaineering groups. The actual mountaineering base camp to ascent Kanchenjunga is one more day from here.
In the morning, a short trip following a stream climbs to a moraine top marked with a Chorten adorned with prayer flags and trident, which offers the indescribable view of Kanchenjunga’s south face. A further short walk beyond the Chorten opens the view of Mount Jannu. The remaining day is in leisure, but ask the guide and take one of the Sherpa assigned for you if you are willing to take a side hike.
Then cross the Yalung Ri Glacier and continue the trek to Oktang at 4700 metres, close to Kanchenjunga South Base Camp, from where the first British expedition climbed the Kanchenjunga summit in 1955. Finally, enjoy the views of the southern wall of the Kanchenjunga, including about 15-kilometre-long cirque and 8420m, 8586m, and 8474m, the summits of Mount Kanchenjunga, Talung Peak, Kabru and impressive Jannu and its glacier. In the afternoon, we return to our camp and rest.
An 8-hour trek.
From here, the walk descends via Yalung Bar with fifteen minutes of steep up, crosses a river, and then gradually walks into the forest, with a steep climb for an hour or more towards two small ponds.
From on here, we start crossing the three passes; Miring La, Tamo La and the Selele Pass. Climb for an hour to reach on top of the pass with super views of Kabru, Kanchenjunga, Everest, Lhotse and Chamlang, and Terai belts in good weather. After Miring La, the trail follows down and then up to Selele La at 4250m, with magnificent views of Makalu, Baruntse, and Chamlang and then descends gently to the base of the pass for an overnight stop.
A 4-hour trek.
A scenic hill traverse makes four more passes to cross and stop for lunch. After lunch, steep downhill to Lumba Samba Kharka with a beautiful look to the south face of Jannu. Then an easy trail through rhododendron and pine forest to Ghunsa, a village populated by the Bhotia or the Tibetan, with a police check post requiring registering your trekking permit, TIMS card and national park receipt. Finally, after several days in the mountain and crossing of Mirgin La, the evening is ordinarily celebrative with a beer or a typical local drink called Tongba, made of millet seed and drunk in a unique wooden/bamboo jar with the help of bamboo straw and hot water!
A recharging rest day is required, including for the porters. Ghunsa, or the winter settlement, is an attractive village with wood-and-stone buildings that remain occupied year-round. Ghunsa village has several lodges for trekkers, shops and Bhattis, selling drinks and basic food, Tongba and beer! The river is nearby, so one can make essential washings in the morning and enjoy the rest of the day leisurely.
A 6-hour trek.
The walk leads to the north with a gradual ascent through larch and Juniper forests along the river’s east bank. Further, continuing uphill, following the bank of the Ghunsa River into rhododendron and pine forest, crosses the wooden bridge to the west side of the river, reaching Rambuk Kharka. After Rombuk Kharka, we leave the tree lines behind, walk through a few short bushes, scrub juniper with a climb, and then downhill to Khambachen after crossing a landslide section for overnight camp Khambachen. The skyline is rimmed with excellent views of Khumbukarna, Jannu and other high snow-capped peaks. The valley dominates by peaks of Sharphu 7070m with the north face of Mt. Jannu and Wedge Peak.
A 6-hour trek.
From Khambachen, the trail stays above the river for an hour and then walks further east, descending to a dry river bed at Ramthang Kharka 4355m. Then the trail runs along the rocks and boulder section within a terminal moraine of the Kanchenjunga glacier. The trail joins the Kanchenjunga glacier and then crosses a wooden bridge at Lhonak and Kanchenjunga glacier junction overlooking grand views of Mera Peak 6344 and Wedge Peak.
A 5-hour work for a leisurely round trip.
Today we reach the endpoint of the Kanchenjunga north base camp at Pang Pema, the strategic site from where the Kanchenjunga is climbed from its north side. The trail ascends gradually across the plain, following the moraine with grand views of Kirat Chuli, Nepal Peak, Taple Sikhar Peak, Gimmigela Chuli, or Twins Peak. Finally, walk towards a glacier path to Kanchenjunga North Base Camp, where you will be surrounded by a great mass of mountains with three summits higher than 8000 metres! Enjoy every moment of your being here; we reach the camp for lunch!
A 6-hour trek.
Wake up early to enjoy the superb sceneries of Kanchenjunga massif from its vantage point, a 300-metre climb above the camp. The views are indescribable from our base at Pang Pema, but climbing this vantage point is different for capturing the panorama of Kanchenjunga, Taple Shikhara 6510m Ghimigela Chuli or the twin Peak of 7350m, just in front. And Pyramid Peak, or the Pathibhara Khas of 7168m., Tent Peak or the Kirat Chuli, 7365m. to the east and the Chang Himal towering above the Kanchenjunga glacier to the west. With a feeling of grand accomplishment, we retrace our camp for a hot cup of drinks and a hearty breakfast and start the return journey! Going down is easier; therefore, we go all the way to Khambachen with a 1000-metre of descent. The sceneries while going down are pretty different, simply alluring.
A 4-hour trek.
We walk back on the same trail of day 17, the Ghunsa to Khambachen, but the surrounding sceneries are different while coming down. Enjoy the walking down toward the low-warm areas and into the vegetation!
A 7-hour trek.
From Ghunsa, the trail dips down to the riverbed and crosses the larch forest and fields to Phole 3210m, with several teashops and a small monastery. From Phole cross potato fields and several cattle herders’ camps, walk past beautiful rhododendron and fir forest along the riverbank with an easy level trail reaching a ravine. Finally, cross a bridge over Chhundatangka Khola and a steep climb to the Sherpa village of Gyabla. Gyabla village has a good campsite and two teahouses, one with rooms for trekkers. The valley’s far side is densely forested, but woodcutters have denuded the slopes around Gyabla.
A 7-hour trek.
The day involves walking into bamboo, rhododendron, pine and brown oak forests with pasturelands and waterfalls descending along the Ghunsa Valley. The walking starts with a steep descent to a large cascade at Ghunsa Valley, crosses a bridge over Sumbung Khola, and arrives at Amjilosa at 2490m, a village of Tibetan people with several scattered houses. Then climb through a precarious trail through grassy slopes, see a beautiful waterfall, and descend to Ghaiyabari at 2150 metres, a small farm village. Leaving the Ghaiyabari, we reach a waterfall high above the river. Then, with a few ups and downs winding through a narrow trail comes Sakathum, a village of Tibetan people with teashop and Bhattis, serving basic drinks, including Tongba and beer. Weather permitting, we have a view of Jannu 7710m, still following us!
A 6-hour trek.
The day involves walking in the warm areas, passing several scattered farmhouses and cultivated fields, seeing the people in their daily work and greeting you with friendly, cheerful smiles as you walk through their villages. Start the morning by crossing a suspension bridge on the Arun River above the confluence of the Ghunsa Khola and reach Lelep, a village of Sherpa people and headquarters of the Kanchenjunga conservation area project. Then, descend through Lepsung, Sherpa village, cross the Arun River and reach Tapethor or Taplethok at 1325 metres, a village of Chhetri people. Then a rolling trail, crossing an occasional patch of cool forest areas, we arrive at Chirwa with several teashops and Bhattis, a cheerful local bazaar.
A 7-hour trek.
Start the day up and down through a Riverbank and lush vegetation to Thiwa Khola at 1190 metres, cross a wooden bridge, and pass through a landslide area to Sinwa village at 985 metres with several teahouses and a police check post. Then descend to Sisne Khola, cross a bridge, and reach a trail junction. The trail from here goes to Pathibhara, a famous pilgrimage destination for Buddhists and Hindus, on which we will also walk tomorrow. Finally, passing several villages, we cross another bridge over Yaphre Khola and reach a small place at Phurumbu School premises.
A 4-hour trek.
The last day of the adventure takes you back to Sukhetar in Tapeljung. Trekking in the low, warm areas passes through several scattered villages and farmlands to Sukhetar, with an airstrip. But we do not use this airstrip to fly to and from Kathmandu due to unpredictable flight times; frequent delays may lead to cancellations. Therefore, we drive to Bhadrapur and catch an early morning flight to Kathmandu the next day.
A 6-hour drive.
From Sukhetar, drive via farm villages to Badrapur town for an overnight stay.
In the morning, transfer to Bhadrapur airport, check-in, and fly to Kathmandu. A short scenic flight takes you to Kathmandu. Upon landing, the representative of Happy Feet Nepal will welcome you back and transfer you to your hotels. Get distributed to the rooms, and the rest of the day is free.
A reserve day to make sure of a trouble-free itinerary. If all goes well, use the extra day to visit some of the medieval towns of Kathmandu, such as Bhaktapur, Patan, Boudhanath Stupa and Swayambunath Stupa, some of not to miss sites in the Kathmandu valley when you are already here.
Breakfast and the rest of the day are leisure on your own. The Representative of Happy Feet Nepal will arrive at your hotel with transport three hours before your departure flight time. Get escorted from the hotel to the International Departure Terminal, see off formalities, and go through the immigration and departure.
The spring and the fall are always the best time to trek in the Kanchenjunga region. However, the fall/autumn season, from the first week of October to the first week of December, is undoubtedly the best time to trek through the mountain bases of Kanchenjunga. The weather remains crystal clear, with breathtaking views of the Himalayas and the landscapes.
Theoretically, the spring season is the second-best but the first-best season for many due to its flowering season and long daylight period. Spring is beautiful with rhododendron, magnolia and wild orchids, and birdlife for which Kanchenjunga is known, but blossoms in the mid-hill region of Nepal. Spring is also the time to build up the monsoon; clouds and rain become more frequent in the lower valley, thundering and hailing on high grounds.
The summer, monsoon time for Nepal, is also a beautiful time to visit the high areas, such as the base of Kanchenjunga and its high passes. In the summer, the mountain bases of Kanchenjunga and its alpine meadows and valleys turn into lush green and carpeted with multi-coloured flowers. The high glacial scree and moss-filled rocks blossom in this season. And the people interested in sighting the high-Himalayan flowers and orchids come to trek during the summertime.
December to February is not considered a good time for this itinerary due to its wilderness and the possibility of massive snowfalls. Still, if you take a cultural trek through its multi-cultured lowland, it is a lifetime experience!
