Annapurna Circuit with Nar Phu and Tilicho Lake
Trekking in the shades of Annapurna, into the forbidden valleys of Nar and Phu and in the sacred valleys of Manang and Kali Gandaki
Highlights:
Explore hidden corners of the high Manang Valley around Nar and Phu, one of the pristine and unspoiled villages and less-visited Himalayan areas. Walk from the main scenic trails of the Annapurna circuit and then off the beaten path. Sight elusive snow leopard and blue sheep, often seen on treks. Visit Tilicho Lake and its Great Barrier. Cross the high Himalayan passes of Kang La and Thorung La and enter the beautiful valley of Mustang.
Trek Profile:
Nar-Phu and Annapurna Circuit Trek with Tilicho Lake trek itinerary cover the most significant areas of the Annapurna circuit trail. Nar-Phu lies in the Annapurna region, where half of the walks take you on the main scenic trail of Annapurna Circuit and then away from the main trekking trails to reach the hidden country at Nar and Phu villages. The other two alternative trails that reach the area are from Manang to Nar, crossing the Kangla Pass, and another is from Mustang to Phu, crossing the high Saribung Pass. The above three trails receive very few travellers; only those managed to include the Nar-Phu and some mountaineers. Therefore, the opportunity to explore in peace and mingle in the local community is immense. Nar-Phu is a beautiful place to experience the culture and traditional life of the natives, enriched in Buddhist practice and hidden at the base of Mount Himlung in a harsh mountain atmosphere but the harmony with pristine natural surroundings.
Nar-Phu area was close to the outside world by nature itself, situated far side of northern Annapurna and behind the scenic Manang Valley, enclosed by the Himalayas and canyon valleys. However, the Nar-Phu area still requires a special permit from Nepal Immigration. Nar-Phu valley is dominated by Kang Guru, Pisang peak and Mount Himlung; Himlung is one of Nepal’s most preferred 7000 metres mountains.
The trail to Nar-Phu separates with the classic Annapurna Circuit at Koto and enters into a deep gorge with dense alpine forests and deep canyons surrounded by snow-capped mountains. At Phu village, we spend a day visiting its ancient settlement and monasteries and walking to Nar, similar to Phu village, with beautiful mountain scenery. From Nar, the trek hikes to cross Kang La pass, enjoying the fantastic views of Annapurna, Chulus and Damodar Himal range with Pisang Peak.
After Kang La Pass, it is a short walk down the Manang valley. Visit the Manang valley, cross the Thorung Pass 5416 metres, the highest elevation of the trek, and drop to Kali Gandaki, visiting some of its incredible villages, ending the trekking at Jomsom. From Jomsom, a 20 minutes flight puts us at Pokhara, one of the most beautiful cities of Nepal and connects with Kathmandu by a short flight or 200-kilometre drive or extend the trip further south to Chitwan National Park.
Arrive in Kathmandu, customs and immigration formalities and claim your baggage, which takes some time. Upon exiting, the arrivals get a traditional welcome from the Happy Feet Nepal representative and transfer to the hotel. Reach the hotel, and the rest of the day is free with the possibility of optional excursions (not included), but you can ask to organise any of the tours or stroll through its vibrant streets.
Kathmandu, the capital and heart of the country with three medieval cities, symbolises Nepal’s everything. Having lived through the several ruling dynasties of Buddhists and Hindus, the culture and society of Kathmandu valley have evolved through time to give it more than a unique feature. Today it is an urban city, and still rapidly increasing, that has its ancient myths and, at the same time, is testimony to the greatness of people who have lived there for time immemorial.
Breakfast at the hotel. In the morning, visit Swayambhunath, dating back more than 25 centuries and one of the world’s oldest Buddhist chaityas. The great stupa of Swayambhunath is a landmark wonder of Nepal and is listed as a World Heritage Site. The all-seeing eyes of Lord Buddha keep an eternal watch over the valley.
Swayambhu is located west of Kathmandu proper on a hillock about 500 feet above the valley floor. The whole hill is a mosaic of small chaityas and pagodas—one Hinayana (Theravada) and five Mahayana (Vajrayana)—temples. The site offers a complete view of Kathmandu valley, its surroundings, and the northeastern Himalayas.
In continuity, drive to Patan, one of the three medieval cities of Kathmandu valley and one of the World Heritage sites among the seven World Heritage sites of Kathmandu valley, located 7-kilometres southwest of Kathmandu. The city known as Lalitpur, the City of Arts, was a renowned Buddhist centre in Asia and has four Ashok-built Stupas and a multitude of miniature stupas, monasteries, viharas and temples. At Patan, we visit its Durbar Square, the Golden Temple, Thousand Buddha, and its museum, among other sites, which explain Buddhism and Hinduism in extensive labels within the living traditions and context.
In the afternoon, drive to Basantapur Durbar Square, also known as Kathmandu’s Durbar Square. The tour of the Kathmandu Durbar Square, classified as a World Heritage Site, teems with activity. It features countless monuments, including the House of the Living Goddess (Kumari Ghar), the ferocious Kal Bhairab and the kneeling Hanuman (the red-capped monkey god) statues.
The architecture represents some of the greatest achievements of the medieval Malla era. The stroll leads around the square past a host of pagoda temples (including the grand temple of the goddess Taleju) and a window framing Shiva and Parbati sitting together viewing the scene.
The square is full of colourful life centred on the Kasthamandap rest-house. Said to have been built with wood from a single tree (and the origin of Kathmandu’s name), it is now reconstructed in the wake of the 2015 earthquake. Then visit the Temple of Kumari; the residential quarters of the Living Goddess called Kumari (‘chaste virgin’) consists of a traditional building complex featuring carved wooden balconies and windows.
Also impossible to overlook are the great bell and large drums. The palace’s main golden gate is guarded by the monkey god Hanuman, the faithful devotee of Lord Ramachandra, the hero of the epic Ramayana.
Finally, pass through the Hanuman Dhoka: the historic seat of the past Malla and Shah dynasties. The historic temples and palaces epitomise the religious and cultural lifestyle of the rulers. Among the most interesting things to view is the Taleju Temple, built by King Mahindra Malla in A.D. 1549 and a historical museum containing artefacts of past Shah kings.
We finalise with the tour and ride a rickshaw and roll through its old city market centre, the Ason Bazaar, seeing what the Nepalese people buy and sell in their daily run.
A 7-hour drive.
Nar-Phu valley and Annapurna trekking begin with an exciting overland journey to reach Nepal Mid West, heading past Besisahar town, the headquarters of Lamjung district. From Besisahar, we change the vehicle to a Jeep and continue driving on dirt roads past the villages of Khudi, Bulbule and Ngadi, following the Masrsyangdi River upstream. Drive continues through terraced fields and villages to Syange, a small farm village, for an overnight stop.
A 5-hour trek.
From Syange, the first day’s walk begins with a climb leaving Masrsyangdi River behind and reaching Jagat village, with several lodges. From Jagat, the trail levels some descends and climbs to Chamje with a beautiful view of the Marshyangdi River valley and several waterfalls. Chamje, above the bank of the Marshayngdi River, has several nice lodges where we stop for lunch. After lunch, cross the Masrsyangdi River to the east side within a forested area and climb on a high hill ridge with a view of the Annapurna and Manaslu mountains. Then a lovely traverse reaches Tal Besi with several nice lodges and a beautiful waterfall. From Tal Besi, the trail follows the Marshyangdi valley upstream through a narrow gorge crossing several dispersed settlements and beautiful waterfalls to Dharapani village, a big village located at the junction of the Annapurna circuit and Manaslu trail. Most Manaslu Expedition groups start their trek from Dharapani, and the Manaslu circuit trekkers end their walk here.
A 5-hour trek.
From Dharapani morning walk leads through rhododendron and pine forest, passing villages of Bagarchap village with a nice view of Annapurna II and surrounding beautiful hills densely forested. Continue following the Marshyangdi village on a level trail passing through Danaqu and a climb through a lovely forest to the Timang, a settlement of Buddhists facing views of Mt. Manaslu 8,163m. From the Timang village, a two-hour trek brings you to Koto for an overnight stop, near Chame town, with a permit checking and registering posts. Chame is the largest town in this area, the administrative headquarters of the Manang district, 30 minutes above Koto Kyupar.
A 5-hour trek.
Trek leads through a narrow valley within a forest of pines and rhododendron trees, then reaches a lovely pasture field with huts and sheds of Yak herders. The trail continues in the lower basin gorge formed by Pisang Peak and Kang Guru Himal, following the Nar-Phu River upstream to reach Dharmasala for an overnight stop.
A 3-hour trek.
From Dharmasala, the walk leads past Shepherd’s hut and stream leading north towards Phu village with a steep climb reaching a Chorten at 3545 metres. The walk goes into a bowl-shaped valley and reaches the winter settlement of Meta. The area is also the base camp for the Kang Guru 6981 metres expedition. Then continue the abandoned villages of Meta with empty houses and reach a Chorten and a trail junction to Nar with views of Monastery and Chorten of Nar bellow us. Continue passing several herders’ camps and the second trail branching to Nar and reach Jhunam with a Chorten at 3645 metres. Jhanum is a former armed Khampa Soldiers settlement of around the 1960s. Then an effort takes to ascend and descend on a glacial moraine stream that climbs to a small pass marked with prayer flags and a grand view of Annapurna behind us. Then a short descent to Khyang, the winter settlement of Phu village. The village has superb views of Pisang Peak 6091m, Annapurna II 7937m, Gyaji Kang 70309m, Tilje Peak 6530m and the ridge of Swargadwari (Gateway to Heaven), the impressive rock curved slab above the Marshyangdi River valley rising more than 1500 metres.
A 6-hour trek.
The morning walk starts through a deserted Phu Khola along a trail carved out of a cliff, staying on the east side and passing a wooden bridge far below us. Then climb through a staircase, passing eroded rocks and windswept fluted brown spires. The region is home to snow leopards and mountain wildlife; one may see herds of blue sheep grazing around. Then a steep switchback on a fragile trail brings us over to the Phupi Gyalgoe Gate, the entrance to the Phu village, with amazing views. Still need to walk, admiring the spectacular approach to the village, past a ruined Dzong (Fort) to a group of Chortens adorned with colourful prayer flags. Finally, cross a long mani-wall and a suspension bridge, reaching the extraordinary village of Phu with about 40 households. The Phu village is surrounded by several meditation caves, ruined Dzongs and abandoned settlements, explaining its glorious past.
Rest day at Phu and explore the impressive village, Tashi Lhakhang, Samdu Choling Monasteries, and Kyauchyu waterfalls at Phu Village. Tashi Lhakhang, founded by the 10th Gyalwa Karmapa, remains open to visitors and is cared for by several nuns. In addition, the monastery has several resident quarters, including the quarter of Lama Karma Sonam, a famous Tibetan Amchi (herbal medicinal and traditional healer) who fled from Tibet with Dalia Lama. The Himlung Himal, one of the most preferred 7000 peaks, and Brikuti Peak are in the scene beautifully.
A 6-hour trek.
From Phu village, we retrace on the same trail to Khyang, Chyarkha and Jhanumor in an hour and fork right to the Nar village trail. The trail descends, passing beautifully eroded hoodoos looking like they are collapsing any moment. There is a view of the ruined Zampa Dzong (Fort) and a twin bridge over 80 metres deep canyon drilled by Dho Khola; the bridge is also called Mahendra Pool (Bridge); it is to say like the Mahendra Bridge over Seti gorge in Pokhara. The trail makes a short climb and descent to Nar Phedi at 3555 metres with a monastic school of the Kagyukpa sect. We camp on the premises of the monastery. Walking a short distance to the north from the camp offers good views of Gyalbu Kubum Chhorten and the abandoned Satte Gonpa (monastery).
A 3-hour trek.
The morning starts with climbing for an hour, crossing two Chortens with a gradually opening view of Kang Guru. We then climb through Nar Gate. Continue the ascent, passing a cowshed and a heap of mani-stones and curve around a hill ridge with views of imposing Pisang Peak, 6091 metres. Continuing, we cross another old Chorten, then a multi-tiered elaborate Chorten and finally ten Chortens lined and see the Nar village. Nar is bigger than Phu village, with around 70 households and an impressive view of Kang Guru and Pisang peak. This village is beautifully seen while climbing Pisang Peak. After lunch, we visit the village and its monasteries; Guru Chholing, Samten Pelgye Ling and Samdu Chholing.
A 2-hour trek.
It takes a short day, less than two hours, to reach the Kang La Phedi or the Kang La base camp. Therefore we take a leisurely morning, take breakfast, visit the village, take lunch and start the walk to Kang La Phedi. We leave the village by crossing a Kani and, with a gradual climb, enjoying Pasang Peak and its razor ridge in view. Then traverse yak pastures and contours up around the hill to Kang La Phedi or the Jhambu Kharka.
Accommodation in a tented camp, on a full board.
A 6-hour trek.
The crossing of Kang La pass is not an effort-taking climb if the weather is favourable or without snow, or it can be treacherous walking on the snow. The high pass crossing days usually start early to avoid the strong winds and possible bad weather. Start the day by crossing a stream and taking a steep walk reaching a Chorten before arriving at a ridge. Then cross a stream and climb steeply on a well-graded trail overlooking the Nar valley and Pisang Peak. The Kang La Pass at 5320m is marked with a heap of stones and multicoloured prayer flags over a razor-shaped hill, dividing the Manang and Narphu valley. Weather permitting, Annapurna, Chulu, Pisang, Narphu valley, and Manaslu are impressive.
From the Kang La, the trail rolls down over loose scree and walks over a gradually descending valley with an incredible view of Manang valley, rimmed by the Annapurna Mountain range and reaches the medieval village of Ngawal. The stone-built village of Ngawal, with prayer flags on each roof, overlooks the Manang Marshyangdi valley with fantastic views.
A 4-hour trek.
Breakfast and visit the Ngawal Monastery and start the day ahead. From Ngawal, the scenery-filled trail descends to Humde village, with an airport, and continues towards Braga village on a lovely pine-scented level trail. Finally, cross a wooden bridge over the Marshyangdi River and reach Braga village. At Braga, we visit its 600-years old monastery sitting above the town and facing the Annapurnas. Braga is a probable lunch place and takes an easy short walk to Manang, the main village amongst the seven villages of Nyesyang territory.
A 6-hour to go and come back.
Rest day; those willing to take a tough day hike will be taken to Ice Lake for a full day workout, but the sceneries of Annapurna and its surroundings are rewarding for the effort. Ice lake is a group of lakes situated high above the Braga village. The central lake is quite big. Climbing to a southeast hill ridge above the lake provides a fine view of the Ngawal and lower valley, Pisang Peak, Annapurna and the peaks of Chulu.
A 2-hour trek.
A leisurely start, wake up late, have breakfast and rest until lunch. After lunch, start the walk to Khangsar. From Manang, the trail to Thorung and Tilicho branches. Then, we take the left path to Tilicho and descend to Marshyangdi river, crossing a Chorten. Then the trail goes west with beautiful views and crosses a bridge over Jarsang Khola. We then climb a ridge with a ruin of Dzong, looking back to Manang village and its impressive valley. We then continue on a wide trail through the blue pine forest and climb to Khangsar village, another principal village of Nyesyang territory, with traditional stone buildings surrounding a large village square.
A 5-hour trek.
From Khangsar, the trail climbs to a Chorten, passing the monastery traverses above the Marshyang River through Juniper and thorny bushes. Further continuing, cross a stream and reach the Thare Gonpa, an isolated monastery. A short walk from the monastery, cross a stream and reach Sri Kharka junction branching trail to Yak Kharka, Annapurna circuit trail, and Tilicho. Finally, we traverse along the landslide area with some herders’ camp and cross a valley, and another steep landslide area to Tilicho Base Camp, formed in the base of a junction of side valleys, without any views and a cold place!
A 5-hour trek.
A walk starts through a side valley and traverses over the moraine to 4710 providing fine views of Tarke Kang 7202m, Gagapurna 7455m and Khangsar Kang (also called rock noir) 7485m, and the valley toward Manang and Upper Pisang. Further, continue requiring a series of switchbacks for an hour and reach a Chorten and then to a crest at 5010m with prayer flags and the first view of Tilicho Lake, 4km long and 2.5km wide at 4920 metres above sea level, reflecting the surrounding mountains and its Tilicho 7135m. The views of the Great Barrier, the high snowbound ridge between Khangsar and Nilgiri north, 7061m, are impressive, and its highest point is Mount Tilicho, 7135m. After enjoying grand sceneries, a long traverse by the shore and reach a camping site at a large rock at 4930m with a stream for water. Or Just camp around the ridge to shorten the return trek for tomorrow.
A 6-hour trek.
Retrace the trail back to Tilicho Base Camp and Sri Kharka, near Thare Gonpa.
A 4-hour trek.
The morning starts with a gradual climb to Yak Kharka, joining the classic Annapurna circuit trail. Yak Kharka is also the base camp for Chulu West Peak, one of the famous trekking peaks. Yak Kharka to Thorung Phedi is a level walk, and the sceneries are stunning. Lunch at Thorong Phedi and an hour of ascending to Thorong High Camp, with much better views of the Chulu Mountains.
A 3-hour trek.
Thorong means dawn, and la means hill or a pass in the Tibetan/Sherpa language, requiring crossing early in the morning. Therefore, one of the highlights and significant days of the trek requires an early breakfast and start trekking to cross the Thorong La Pass 5,416m. The entire trail to Thorong Pass offers grand sceneries of Chulu Mountain, Annapurna, Gangapurna, Katung Kang, Yak Kawa Kang, and Thorong Peak. The pass between Yak Kawa and Thorog Peak is marked with traditional Buddhist Chorten and colourful prayer flags. After crossing the Thorong La, the sight of the Kaligandaki river valley below the windswept spires and Dhaulagiri range is impressive. The descent to Muktinath is 1600 metres, and the most direct descent is from the pass to Thorong Base Camp and a level walk to Muktinath.
Muktinath means ‘liberator’, and the area is called Mukti Kshetra, which means the ‘area of salvation.’ It is one of the sacred sites for Buddhists and Hindus. The Buddhists call it the site of Phagpa Chenrezig, the all-seeing lord and the embodiment of compassion leading to all being on the path of self-liberation. The Hindus call him Vishnu, and the ammonite fossils found in the Kali Gandaki riverbed are worshipped as a Chakra (discus – the inner marks of the fossils), carried by Visnu and believe that venerating Saligramas liberates them from all sins.
A 5-hour trek.
Visit the Muktinath temple, Dzarkot, Dzarkot monastery, a herbal medical centre, and Dzarkot fortress and initiate the last trek day via Lupra Gonpa. The trail offers some of the finest views of Mount Dhaulagiri, Tukche, Nilgiri, Tilicho and Kali Gandaki valley. Trekkers less frequent this circuit; therefore, we take this route and visit a small but beautiful and authentic Lupra village and its monastery. After the Lupra Village, we see the Thini village, opposite the Jomsom airport, with a good view of Jomsom, Kali Gandaki valley and Dhaulagiri. A short descent from Thini crosses the Kali Gandaki River and ends the trek at Jomsom, the headquarters of Mustang District. Jomsom is also a trek starting and ending point for Upper Mustang Trek, Dolpo Trek, Around Dhaulagiri Trek, Kali Gandaki Trek and several treks in the Annapurna region. The evening is a special occasion, a farewell party with your porters, Sherpa and cook staff who take a separate 24 hours long bus drive to Kathmandu.
A 20 minute flight.
Walk to the airport and board a small aircraft (Twin Otter / Dornier or similar). The flight offers fantastic views of the Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri, and Annapurna ranges on both sides of the plane.
Tireless views last till it touches at beautiful Pokhara city airport. Once we get out of the plane, the panorama to the northeast of Pokhara, filled with great mountain rows, greets you back. Transfer to Pokhara Lakeside and get your room distributed. The remaining time is free for resting and refreshment. In the evening, we stroll around the lake of Pokhara while choosing one of its best restaurants for a hearty dinner.
Early in the morning, we take a short drive to Sarangkot viewpoint to view the best panoramas Pokhara city offers. The views from the top of Sarangkot offer a 360-degree panorama, including the Phewa Lake, Pokhara city and its surroundings, rimmed by grand snow-capped Himalayas and rolling hills as far as we can see. In continuity, visit the International Mountain Museum, David’s fall, have lunch and drive to the airport for a 30 minute flight to Kathmandu.
Get landed at Kathmandu airport and greeted by the Happy Feet Mountaineers representative, and drive to your hotel in Thamel, which may take 20 to 40 minutes drive, depending on the traffic. The rest of the afternoon is free.
Breakfast and a full day of visits to Kathmandu, starting with Pashupatinath Temple. A pagoda temple with gilt roofs, carved with silver doors dedicated to Lord Shiva, situated at the bank of the holy Bagmati River, and regarded as among the most sacred temples of the Hindu religion, Pashupatinath is the focus of pilgrimages culminating in the day of Shiva Ratri (the marriage anniversary of Lord Shiva and the goddess Parvati). Pashupati is also the cremation ground in the ghats (cremation group) along the bank of River Bagmati, where the recently deceased Hindus of the Valley are cremated.
After the visit, we take a 13 kilometres drive to Bhaktapur, east of Kathmandu. Its original name is Bhadgaon, or the village of Devotees is one of the living museums of Kathmandu valley. Bhaktapur is filled with the 55-windowed Royal Palace, the Palace of the Kumari, the temple of Taleju, the temple of Pashupati, the main square of Taumadhi Tole, Nyatapola Temple (the most imposing the tallest such architecture in all of Nepal), the temple of Akash Bhairab (the second most important temple of Bhadgaon), the Dha Hateya and the Square of the Potters. UNESCO recognises Bhaktapur as a World Heritage Site.
In the evening, visit the Boudhanath, the largest Buddhist shrine in South Asia. This ancient Chorten was built in the 5th century A.D. by King Manadeva. A series of three terraces lead up through water, fire and air segments to the pinnacle, symbolic of space and the highest spiritual attainment. The whole is surrounded by a circle of shops that form a small Tibet. Lord Buddha’s four pairs of eyes flash vividly into the cardinal directions, radiating the message of Mahayana Buddhism, known as Lamaism in Sikkim, Ladakh, Bhutan and Tibet.
Breakfast and the rest of the day are leisure on your own. The Representative of Happy Feet Nepal will arrive at your hotel with transport three hours before your departure flight time. Get escorted from the hotel to the International Departure Terminal, see off formalities, and go through the immigration and departure.
The spring and the fall are always the best time to trek to the Annapurna region. However, the fall season, from October to November, is undoubtedly the best time to visit Nepal. The weather remains crystal clear, with breathtaking views of the Himalayas and the landscapes. However, it is colder at high altitudes during both seasons.
Theoretically, spring is the second-best, but spring is the first-best season for many. Spring is more interesting as the rhododendron and wildflowers blossom in the mid-hill region of Nepal. The parts above Syange to Kyang and Jomsom to Ghorepani are prime areas to sight rhododendron, combining an Annapurna Full Circuit Trek. However, spring is also the time for the build-up of monsoons and clouds, and one may encounter occasional rain in the lower valleys and hail at the high altitude.
The summer, monsoon time for Nepal, is also a beautiful time to visit the high dry land such as Nar-Phu, Manang, Tilicho and Muktinath to Kalopani. The monsoon rain feeds the highlands, turning the meadows, valleys and hills into lush green. In summer, the high plateau gets carpeted with yellow and multi-coloured flowers and beautiful streams, and medicinal plants feed the Yak and Sheep grazing in the region.
In the Nar-Phu, Manang and Muktinath regions, the winter temperature, especially January-February, may drop to -15 degrees from sunset to sunrise. The daytime temperature remains 0 to 18 degrees. Therefore, this itinerary is not recommendable for December to the end of March.
