Upper Dolpo Trek

Breakfast at the hotel and a free day in Kathmandu for rest, permit and trek preparation. Please let the Happy Feet Mountaineers representative know if you want to join the sightseeing tour around the ancient and historical Kathmandu valley and the famous Buddhist and Hindu sites listed as world heritage sites by UNESCO.

Fly from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj airport, an hour or 50-minute flight. A fantastic panorama of Himalayan peaks from Langtang – Ganesh -Manaslu – Annapurna to Dhaulagiri range from your flight. Upon reaching Nepalgunj airport, transfer to the hotel and stay overnight at the Siddhartha Hotel with a pool. Nepalgunj city lies on southern Nepal’s lowland hot plain, bordering India, a major centre for flights and bus transport to western Nepal.

45-minute flight and a 3-hour walk.

Breakfast at the hotel and take an early morning short connecting flight to Jhupal into the Dolpo region. During the flight, enjoy seeing the densely forested Terai belt of southern Nepal, followed by green hills with terraced fields and the panorama of the Dhaulagiri range and other high western Himalaya ranges, including Kanjiroba. Then, an exciting landing at Jhupal airport with greets and assistance from our staff and porters. The airport is built above the village, on a hill ridge, high above the Thuli Veri River. The inhabitants are a mix of ancient Bon-Po (currently the fifth School of Buddhism). Buddhists and Hindus live in small whitewashed stone and mud houses, typically built close to each other or with a sharing courtyard.

After lunch and getting organized at Juphal (distributing loads to the mules), we initiate our first day’s trek to Suli Gad. The trail descends through Sangibada village, crossing its terraced fields to Thuli Veri and hiking on a wide path on the west side of the Thuli Veri Riverbank. On your backside, you can see a temple high above a hill ridge, the fort temple of Tripurakot (Tripura fortress), a pilgrimage site for Hindus of the region. From Juphal to Suli Gad is a 3-hour easy walk to reach Suli Gad village, which is also the entrance to Nepal’s largest National Park, in the west of Nepal, with an area of 3555 square kilometres, established in 1984. Stay overnight in the tented camp on the bank of Thuli Very River.

A 5-hour trek.

The morning starts with a wake-up tea, a bowl of hot water for washing, and a table set for a warm breakfast with tea, coffee, chocolates, and Jam/butter; this routine ends only after taking a flight back to Kathmandu! From Suli Gad, a beautiful trek starts through the pine, birch and fir forest, mainly staying on the right bank of the river through a steep canyon and some climbing and descending. Next, the trail passes farm villages and fields of walnut trees close to the Dhara stream and a short climb to Raha Gaon, populated with Thakuri and Malla. Thakuri and Malla are ancient Buddhist communities and are currently Hindu. Finally, cross the Suli Gad River on a wooden bridge and continue on the western bank, passing several herders’ sheds and pastures and reach a temporary settlement of Ringmo people called Jyalhasa and continue further to Chhepka, a small Tibetan village with a grassy campsite. Juphal to Chhepka is comparatively in the lower valley, which means warmer; you will notice people wearing a mixed dress, Tibetan and Hindu, and, accordingly, jewellery.

A 6-hour trek.

From Chhepka morning walk with a short climb through a wooded gorge crossing the Suli Gad four times, we stay much of the time close to the river. The forest comprises rhododendron, firs, birches, deciduous conifers, bamboo, and other trees, with many birds flying from rock to rock in their river valleys. In about three and half hours’ walk, we reach Rechi, with a tented camp teahouse run by people from Ringmo. After lunch, we have another two and half hours of trekking to complete the day, involving a steep going up to a ridge top offering fantastic views of deep Suli Gad River valley and the upper valley. After the descent and passing some bridges, cross a small bridge at Ryajik village and reach the campsite at Sumduwa. Sumduwa means meeting three or three mixed in the local language, where three rivers meet, including Pungmo Chhu and Suli Gad (from here known as Phksundo Khola). We have a beautiful camp on the riverbank, after the Tibetan Amchi Hospital (herbal hospital/Amchi is Doctor in Tibetan) and a school. A trail from here leads to Jumla via Kagmara La pass.

A 5-hour trek.

We retrace back to the river, cross the river Phoksundo and catch a steep ascend through the forest of birch and larches through Polam village, a temporary or winter settlement of people from Ringmo. Further, we reach a ridge adorned with Buddhist praying flags; the point offers a magnificent view of water falling from Lake Phoksundo, more than 200 metres tall, draining the Suli Gad, and the view across the valley and lower valley are beautiful. Continuing a short walk, we can view the first view of Lake Phuksundo and descend through a lovely forest to the river from Phoksundo Lake and reach Ringmo village, an attractive Tibetan-style village with Chorten (small stupas) and Mani (prayer) walls. The people here are pure Tibetans wearing think woollen Chhuwas (both men and women) and jewellery of coral, turquoise and amber necklaces. This thick woollen cloth is necessary due to its alpine climate and windy, dry regions. To the west, east and north, the areas after Ringmo (Phoksundo Lake) are filled with alpine meadows, dry and dune-like windswept high mountains, alpine grazing meadows filled with flowers, and vast river valleys and hills with medicinal herbal plants. Most of the areas of Upper Dolpo have views of beautifying snow-capped mountains stretching as far as we can see. Spend two nights here and explore the village, monasteries and surroundings.

An ideal place for a rest day by the beautiful Lake, enjoying a walk around and hike with views of Kagmara peaks, or visiting Ringmo village and an ancient Bon Po monastery. The beautiful Phoksundo Lake is an alpine freshwater lake in Nepal’s Shey Phoksundo National Park, 3611m above sea level. This Lake is claimed to be one of the deepest lakes in Nepal. A legend connects a history of flying Bon Po leader from Guru Rinpoche, who bribed a turquoise to a layman to undercover which direction he went to Guru Rinpoche. The layman accepts the bribe and lies to Guru Rinpoche. The Tantric master knew the lie and turned the turquoise into a cow sheet! The layman feels that the Bon Po leader fooled him; he tells the truth to Guru Rinpoche, which leads to subduing the Bon-Po leader and, later, the turquoise converts into the Phosundo Lake. There is an ancient Bon-Po Monastery, the Thasoon Chholing Monastery, just above the eastern shore of Lake Phoksundo.

A 4 to 5-hour trek.

The trek starts from the Lake’s western shore, crossing the bridge that collapsed in Eric Valli’s ‘Himalaya’ movie scene. This walking part is one of the most beautiful sections of the trek, with fantastic views of Phosundo Lake, Ringmo village and its surroundings, Sonam Kang and Kanjiroba Mountains. After 35 minutes, descend to the Lake and climb to a 4000 metres crest, a luring place for rest and photographs. After a fantastic rest and capturing the heart singing sceneries, we continue the walk and reach the Lake’s northern end with a long descent. The trail goes through the Himalayan birch and pine forest to reach Chabluk Phu campsite, a flat grazing area and a lovely camping place, opening up into a wide valley at Phoksundo Khola (stream).

A 5-hour trek.

A lovely morning with a level walk to the northwest through shrubs and seeing some green Himalayan pines on the surrounding slopes and birch and rosebuds, all decreasing in height, signalling the entry into the dry Dolpo region. However, we are walking on the shallow side above the river, which requires wading and crossing the streams several times, making our feet cold and refreshing. Past Phoksundo Khola, climb on a stone and rocky path to Snowfield Camp.

A 6-hour trek.

The morning starts with a steep climb for an hour, reaches a resting place, and turns left to complete a more vertical section to reach the base of the Kang La (Nangda La). A left turn from the base requiring a steep traverse over loose slate scree brings us to the ridge top of Kang La Pass (also called Nangdo La) at 5,350m., the highest point of the Upper Dolpo and Lower Dolpo Circuit. The highest point is the Sangda La at 5460 metres if one takes the Upper Dolpo to Jomsom. The Kang La has fine landscapes with beautiful Mount Shey Shikhar and Kang Chune, including Dhaulagiri to the far side. Descend to the bottom of the hill, which leads to a river, usually our lunch site. The area is well known for spotting snow leopards, so with a good-lanced camera or binocular search around the hill slopes, they are indeed there and blue sheep, the favourite meal of snow leopards. Then walk downhill following the valley, cross the herder camps that reach a long ancient mani-wall and reach the fabled Shey Gompa at the base of Crystal Mountain, the holiest Mountain of the entire Dolpo, just above the monastery.

A perfect place for a rest day, enjoying the harmony of nature, visiting monasteries, and hearing the chants of monks. Today we visit the Shey gompa, founded around the 11th century by Drotob Senge Yeshe, a Tibetan Buddhist Monk, after subduing a powerful mountain spirit of the region. Shey Gompa contains colourful murals and ancient Thankas, statues and scrolls of the founding time describing the importance of Crystal Mountain and the whereabouts of a milky lake in Crystal Mountain. Then visit another monastery to the left of Shey Gompa, built into the cliff. The rest of the day is to rest and see around and meet the neighbouring dwellers of Shey, just about nine households.

Crystal Mountain is the top of the mountain above Shey Gompa. The Buddhist pilgrims arriving here take a kora (circumambulation) of the hill and take a long full day of merit-earning work. From the kora of the mountain, one can see Mount Kailash in Tibet, the holiest mountain on earth for all faith. The founder of the Shey Gompa, Drotob Senge Yeshe, describes in short:

‘I flew through the sky on a snow lion.
And there, among the clouds, I performed miracles.
But not even the greatest of celestial feats
Can equal once rounding on foot, this Crystal Mountain.’

 The people of Dolpo and far from gather here on the full moon of July-August and circumambulate their Crystal Mountain or Mount Kailash. After the circumambulation, the Dolpopas (People of Dolpo) start their harvest. Therefore, those willing to coincide with the full moon day of July-August are requested to stay here for at least three days, arriving one day before the full moon day as the local pilgrims, herders, and merchants do.

A 6-hour trek.

From Shey, the journey heads east along the Sephu Chhu into the canyon towards Saldang. The trail toward Saldang is one of the significant cultural routes; therefore, there are many ancient mani-walls, and we may meet people from Saldang coming or going around. After about three hours of walking and a gradual climb, we reach the Shey La or Gela La or Saldang La at 5,010m., adorned with numerous colourful Buddhist praying flags. This windy pass offers beautiful scenery of Kanjiroroba, Kagmara, and Crystal Mountain to the west, Tibet to the north and Dhaulagiri and Mustang to the east. Enjoying the grand views of landscapes towards Mustang, we take a steep descent to a stream and doksas (pasturelands), usually a lunch stop, and climb contours to Namgung Gaon, with a monastery and cave complex for an overnight stop. The village contains several ancient monasteries perched on a hillside that appears beautifully below us.

A 6-hour trek.

Today we take a short and scenic high trail trek passing through several doksas (pasturelands) to Saldang. After a few hours of gradual climbing, we reach a hill ridge with praying flags that provide views of Saldang, windswept grey-coloured hills bordering Tibet, and Panjang Chhu valley. After the ridge, a sandy trail descent reaches Saldang, the home to the Caravan Thinle, filmed by Eric Valli. Maybe stop here for a look and taste the Salt Tea or Butter Tea consumed throughout the Himalayan regions of Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan. Then, we walk another 30 minutes to the main Saldang village, crossing several Mani-walls and Kani. We camp above the Saldang monastery with a gold gilded roof. Saldang is the largest village of the Nangkhang (Inner) region, with more than a hundred houses until Do Tarap if we circuit the Lower Dolpo to Juphal or until we reach Chharka if we trek the high route to Jomsom.

Today is a day for rest or an exploratory day at or around Saldang village. Those willing can take a day excursion into Karang and Marang o look into the villagers’ life in this part of Nepal. Summer is naturally rich, but in autumn, you can see people collecting their harvest in full force. If you stay a full day in Saldang, there are many things to see around and visit the monasteries, Tibetan medical centre and School at Saldang supported by Altitude Project.

A 5-hour trek.

The day starts with going down past Saldang monastery along the trail to Dho-Tarap Valley along the Nagon Chhu and Sugu Gaon, a whitewashed village with mani-walls, painted Chortens, an old monastery perched high above the mountainsides. Further continuing, we reach the Cha Gaon, cross the Nagon Chhu, walk straight up through a dusty ridge for an hour, and descend to a dry riverbed requiring climbing to a grassy plateau, a perfect place for lunch.

After lunch, it is 20 minutes to Khoma La at 4570 metres and descends gradually to the village of Khoma. Khoma is another pure Tibetan land with a monastery and School.

A 5-hour trek.

The morning starts with descending the river and walking for an hour to cross the Gurchu Chhu on a wooden bridge and contour up to the Shimen La at 4,280 metres offering views of the greener Shimen village. We then take the steep sandy descent to a junction, a trail from Saldang Village following the Panjang Chhu, and reach Shimen. Shimen is comparatively more beautiful than other Dolpo villages due to its many evergreen trees. In addition, the village contains several mani walls, ancient Chorten and a monastery in the centres of the village.

From Shimen, the trail again descends to the river and follows it for an hour and a steep climb to our campsite, Mendo. This site is a seasonal grazing meadow (doksa) with a stone enclosure and a Mani Wall. Mendo means the flower; the meadows and hills around the Lower and Upper/Inner Dolpo remain carpeted with multi-coloured flowers if we arrive here from July to September.

A 5-hour trek

Today we trek along the Panjan Chhu riverside trail, staying on the eastern bank. We come to a trail junction, a trade route leading to the Tibet border on the left. We continue an easy trail passing mani-walls, several ancient meditation caves, Pu Gompa and Namgyal Chorten, far within a minimum of an hour’s walk. The trail crosses a season village and Phalwa village, where another trade route to Tibet is branched. After here, with easy climbing, reach a group of big Chortens and mani adorned with Buddhist praying flags. An hour of walking brings us to the sizeable prominent village of Tinje (Tinkyu). We camp at a lovely grassy meadow on the bank of Panjang Chhu, which offers a great chance to wash and relax. The view from the camp takes us to the Tibetan mountains and surrounding hills.

A 6-hour trek.

The morning walk starts passing through the mysterious, unused airport. The local oral history leads to China taking over Tibet and the CIA dropping the weapon and other supplies to the Khampa warriors. The trail reaches a junction at 4130 metres, with a trail to Tarap Valley. Between Tinkyu and Chharka villages, we only encounter seasonal yak pasturing meadows and narrow paths, and maybe some businessmen from Chharka are going to Tibet. However, this trail is one of the ancient trade routes, primarily for animal husbandry and business travel between Dolpo and Mustang/Jomsom/Thak Khola. The walk continues south until we reach Rapka, a broad plateau on Rakpa Chhu and, accordingly, the views around.

A 6-hour trek.

Today we require to take a long ascent to Chharka La 5020m. The day starts with walking down a wide valley for an hour and wading an icy river to climb toward the Chharka La or Mo La, requiring crossing several shallow places in Lakyan Chu. Continuing, we reach a pass, and another hour’s walk reaches Chharka La at 5,020 metres with a fantastic view of Dhaulagiri, which will remain until we fly to Pokhara. From the Chharka La, the trail makes a long descent through a side valley to 4290 metres and again a long traverse to reach the walled village of Chharka (Tsarka), on the bank of Chhrka/Barbung Chhu, an ancient and prominent settlement with lines of impressive Chortens, two monasteries (Bon and Buddhist), a large Kani and with some shops.

A 4-hour trek.

The morning starts by crossing a mani-wall, a small wooden bridge over Chharka/Barbung Chhu and crossing more mani-walls and, after 15 minutes, another bridge, keeping us to the right side of the river for an hour of lovely walking. Then a gradual climb requires one to descend back to reach the intersection of the Chharka/Barbung Chhu and Thasan Chhu, at Naliyang Sumdo, following a further steep descent to the bridge and climb to a rock ridge marking the junction. From Naliyang Sumdo, we leave the Barbung/Chharka Chhu and turn south, following the left bank of the Thasan Chhu upstream. And start a steep climb, see the river far below, then emerge into a big enclosed meadow, the campsite at Norbulung, meeting four valleys and stream as Thasan Chhuu follows on the gravelled Norbulung meadow. Comparatively, a shorter camp, so one will have time to go around and explore.

A 3 to 4-hour trek.

Follow the sidestream and the north side of Thasan Chhu. The valley becomes narrow, and some section requires scrambling over rocks. Then, the valley widens again and reaches the shady side of the Thasan Chhu, needing to walk on stones and meet the Molum Chhu. Malung Sumdo is high pastureland, a lovely raised meadow between two rivers.

A 6 to 7-hour trek.

Start the day walking on the shallow riverbed for an hour, climb to the crest, and descend to Thansan Chhu with a bridge to cross, which starts a hike to reach a high Yak pasture plateau with two high ridges, Dhaulagiri range at the far end. We cross this first cairn-marked pass and continue toward the black ridge, the Sangda La 5460 metres. Then, make a long traverse through the meadow to the base of the Sangda La Pass, requiring a long and steep final climb to the pass at Sangda La 5460 metres, the borderline between Dolpo and Annapurna region. From the summit, there are 360-degree views; therefore, one will stop here for uncountable photographs! Then, switch back steeply down, crossing the Niwar La at 5120 metres and reach a stream, usually the lunch place, and it is the summer grazing meadow for the herders of Sangda village.

After lunch, the trail continues descending on dusty and scree and reappears the shrubs, Juniper bushes, and finally, the Sangda Phedi, a hard day with a sense of accomplishment. In the local language, Sangda Phedi is called Sangda Ghunsa, which means Sangdas’ winter grazing land. The sceneries of the Himalayas and the surrounding geography for the entire day is exciting.

A 5-hour trek.

The morning starts descending through the Chalungpa Chhu with Juniper and rocky pinnacles until we cross a bridge requiring another climb and a relatively straight walk leading to the other side of the river crossing. The area is grazing land, and many domestic herds indicate the village is nearby. Finally, we come to a side stream to reach Sangda village, a compact settlement of Sangda, with mani-walls, Chortens, a school, walled terraced fields, and stone houses with flat mud roofs rimmed by dry wood!

A 5-hour trek.

Climb the hill behind Sangda with spectacular panoramas of the Himalayas and spend most of the day making a high traverse to cross the Phalyak Pass 4430 metres. From the pass, the views take you to beautiful Kali Gandaki valley, windswept pinnacles toward Mustang, to the north, Nilgiri with Tilicho, Thorang Peak with Muktinath and Kagbeni villages, and the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. We then descend to a cairn at 3700 with a fantastic view of Phalyak village below us, Annapurna to the south and Phalyak river running down to meet the Kali Gandaki. Finally, steep descent through Juniper bushes reaches our camp at Phalyak, and this is the last night in the tent; tomorrow, we will sleep in a guest house at Jomsom.

A 5-hour trek.

A final steady climb through Phalyak and walk south through juniper gorge to a small pass with a Telecom building with beautiful views of Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri, Phalyak, and Kali Gandaki valley. Then take a steep descent directly to Jomsom to end the adventurous journey of a part of the Himalayas!

A reserved day to cover possible flight delays, cancellations, or other unforeseen factors. If all goes well, the free day is for a guided city tour of Kathmandu Valley; there are several not to miss UNESCO World Heritage sites in Kathmandu Valley.

30 minutes drive and 22 minutes flight.

We drive to Jomsom airport in the morning and board a small aircraft (Twin Otter / Dornier or similar types). The flight offers fantastic views of the Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri, and Annapurna ranges on both sides of the plane.

Tireless views last till it touches at beautiful Pokhara City airport. Once we leave the plane, the panorama to the northeast of Pokhara, filled with great mountain rows, greets you back. Transfer to Pokhara Lakeside and get your room distributed. The remaining time is free for resting and refreshment. In the evening, we stroll around the lake of Pokhara while choosing one of its best restaurants for a hearty dinner.

We drive to Sarangkot viewpoint early in the morning to enjoy the site’s best panoramas. The views from the top of Sarangkot offer a 360-degree panorama, including the Phewa Lake, Pokhara city and its surroundings, rimmed by grand snow-capped Himalayas and rolling hills as far as we can see. Then return to your hotel and have breakfast. In continuity, visit the International Mountain Museum, David’s Fall, have lunch and drive to the airport for a 30-minutes flight to Kathmandu.

Get landed at Kathmandu airport, greeted by the Happy Feet Nepal representative, and drive to your hotel in Thamel, which may take 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the traffic. The rest of the afternoon is free.

Optionally take a guided city tour to see and admire some of its medieval towns and monuments listed in UNESCO’s World Heritage sites, combined with a Panoramic flight to view the Everest and other grand Peaks of the mid to eastern Nepal Himalayan range.

Breakfast and the rest of the day are leisure on your own. The Representative of Happy Feet Nepal will arrive at your hotel with transport three hours before your departure flight time. Get escorted from the hotel to the International Departure Terminal, see off formalities, and go through the immigration and departure.