Tsum and Manaslu Circuit Trek

Free day in Kathmandu in preparation for the trek, or take a guided tour of around Kathmandu at places of interest, as Kathmandu city and the valley are filled with world Heritage Sites.

• Accommodation in Hotel Shanker, a 4-star hotel, breakfast included.

An 8-hour drive.

Breakfast at the hotel in Kathmandu and start the early morning overland journey to reach Arughat town, the main trekking starting point. Since the road has climbed into the valley further north, we continue the drive to Jagat, where we stop overnight. It’s a beautiful countryside drive passing through many small towns, villages, jungles, rivers, waterfalls and stunning views of mountains and seeing the daily life of mid-hill Nepalese interwoven with different cultural and cast groups of people.

The name Jagat ‘tax’ village at 1410m is a village of Gurung people. We have to show our MCAP permits. In this zone, beans, potatoes, and maize are planted simultaneously – potatoes for food and suppressing weeds, and maize for food, providing a trellis for the beans, an essential protein and cash crop source.

A 5-hour trek

A new motorable track is underway until Sirdibas; therefore, we need to walk on the dirt road to Salleri at 1440m with sceneries of Sringi Himal at 7187m and then descend to Sirdibas at 1430m, where you will see your first signs of Buddhist culture here. Then, continue upstream on the left bank, up and down, before crossing Nepal’s longest suspension bridge to the east bank and a strenuous climb to the prosperous village of Philim 1595m, surrounded by rich fields of maize, potato and millet. The site is the headquarters of the Tsum-Nubri village Development Committee with a health post, a secondary-level school, a police post, Chholing Sandu Gonpa, and seven lodges with a large camping area. The area is inhabited mainly by the Gurung, Magar and Lama (Tsumbas and Nubripas).

After 1-hour of climbing higher and higher reach, Ekle Bhatti (Also called Chisopani), at 1600m, with eight good lodges, traverses over a spectacular ravine, an uninhabited area with ​pine trees and bamboo. Finally, descent to a trail junction with a new Teahouse for tea/lunch stop; left trail to Ghap and the right to Tsum Valley.

Hop on a well-graded, exposed track through pines and rhododendrons, looking down the path across the river. Climb up zig-zag steps, increasingly exposed, and catch your first views of the narrow lower Tsum Valley, steeply into the Shiar Khola that drains from the highest part of the valley. Across the Budi Gandaki River is Mount Himalchuli, 7893m above sheer cliffs. Trek through a largely untouched and peaceful temperate forest at Lokpa 2240m., surrounded by barley fields, with two comfortable lodge accommodations. The main village is 10 minutes away from the lodge. The houses are classic Tibetan with wood barricades on the roof, but without flat roofs, as it rains and snows here. The village has magnificent views of the 7000m Ganesh Himal and Siringi.

A 4-hour trek.

The day starts traversing through rich agricultural land of corn and potatoes and crosses a big landslide of 2021 that swept away the suspension bridge just east of the Lokpa. Immediately we cross a stream over a bridge and a broad leaf-covered forest of new trees, including bamboo, rhododendron, and pine. We then cross a newly built long bridge on a sheer cliff above the Budi Gandaki River, which takes about 10 minutes to cross. Then the trail climbs a zig-zag trail through stone stairs and with occasional views of Siringi Himal. We then cross a suspension bridge above Shiar Khola, on the opposite bank and the perched village of Ripchet, 2468m above it. About 20 minutes of a zig-zag uphill walk and 10 minutes of level walking bring us to Chumling village, with two good lodge accommodations.

The main village of Chumling is 10 minutes above; therefore, after checking into the lodge and refreshments, we take a short walk to visit the Chumling village. The traditional village of Chumling contains ancient Chortens, mani-walls, several monasteries, a health post and a school, an electricity powerhouse, and has access to mobile and internet. The views from here are Ganesh Himal Range, Cherku Himal and Siringi.

A 5-hour trek.

The morning starts with a beautiful level walking through the farmlands of Chumling and other side villages for an hour and crossing the Dumje village at 2460m., a small settlement with a monastery. Continuing a further 30-minute walk comes to Renjam 2400m, an enclosed courtyard lodge with comfortable accommodations. Renjam is the trail junction to Tsum and Ganesh Himal Base camp. Cross a bridge above Serpu Khola at Renjam and, in forty minutes, reach Gho village, about 14 houses with a monastery and a newly built lodge. From Gho, we cross a loose landslide area and a well-graded but exposed road to Upper Tsum and the large village of Chhokangparo 3010m, stone houses nestled under the cliffs without an iron roof. The village’s original name is Chhokhangpar, the biggest village in the entire Tsum Valley.

The valley opens up here into extensive barley fields, corn, wheat, buckwheat and potatoes. See around and may encounter herds of tahr with gracious mane, often graze the wild cliffs to the north. Cross the fields and reach Chhokangparo with seven comfortable lodges accommodations. In this area, you can enjoy salt tea with fresh Nak butter and milk, Tsampa, Tibetan bread and t-momos. Weather permitting, you can see the valley and Himalchuli 7893m.

A 4-hour trek.

The friendly people of the Tsum region speak Tsumba, related to Tibet but often little to Nepal and are widely used by visitors. Continue east, passing small villages and past a local school, climb over a ridge with a  Chortens and past Lamagaon village 3202m (the second biggest village of Tsum valley) through flat fields, looking out across the arable fields and a huge courtyard from the Rachen Gompa 3240m. This nunnery is the equivalent of the main monastery in Kathmandu, in Kopan, near Boudhanath Stupa. There is another big monastery, a monastic school, called Tsum Monastery, and you can visit it on the way.

After a visit and tea/lunch break, we reach Burji village, about 20 houses. From Burji, go up for 20 minutes and visit the cave of Milarepa or the Piren Phuk, the sacred site where the Buddhist saint Milarepa meditated for 26 years. It is believed that the site was visited by the Guru Rinpoche, the founder of Tantric Buddhism in Tibet, before the Mila Repa, and he meditated here. Then, cross the Shiar Khola and pass-through villages via Phurte 3251m, Pangdun 3258m, and pass a stupa to reach the larger village of Chule 3347m through an impressive gate (Kani) entrance.

The children here all wear Tibetan robes called Chhubas, and there are many yaks. Cross the bridge and go up to Nile 3361m. Both villages are traditional, including cattle compounds and sheltered balconies for dry crops.

A 6-hour trek

Today we start early, moving up the valley on the west bank, enjoying the sunrise over the narrowing valley walls; yaks usually are kept there to graze. The final climb up to the Mu Gompa 3700m is through drier Tibetan country, with rows of Chortens and expansive mountain views. It is a large monastery with over 100 monks and an ancient gonpa. Further, 30 minutes west of Mu Gompa, there is an ancient meditation centre for nuns, and those interested can pay a visit. Depending on how you gain time, you can also visit Dhephyudoma Gompa 4000m to the west on an obvious track (2 hours more).

On three sides are clear views of the border with Tibet, with frequently used passes to the east (Ngula Dhojyang or Mailatasachin La, 5093m) and west (Thapla Bhanjyang 5104m) just out of sight. Some groups climb Kalung 3820 and spend a night hiking the passes to view Tibet, but you need a tented camp. There are extensive yak pastures in all directions, the Lungdang Glacier to the east, and high peaks in all directions.

Return down the valley through Chule and continue down to Phurre, but stay on the east bank of the Shiar Khola and traverse rocky plains to Rajen Gompa 3240m, where it is possible to visit the ancient gonpa with camping facilities. The oldest part of the nunnery is interesting. Each Tsum family usually has one family member as either a monk or nun in the monastic system. Continue south until the bridge crosses to the west bank, then descend to Chhokhangpar for an overnight stop.

A 6-hour trek

We start the trail below Chhokhangpar for around 2 hours until we reach a small gonpa at Gho 2485m. Descend on a narrow path to the left through the village and cross the bridge, over Shiar Khola, to Dhumje 2440m, with a Tibetan herbal medicine clinic and school. The path climbs forward just behind the clinic. Very steep climb on an indistinct track through pines and rhododendrons until the trail begins the trek at a wall of prayer flags.

Finally, take an uphill trail in the pine forest and climb through colossal silver pine trees to reach Gumba Lungdang, 3200m, perched on a hill with tiny beautiful nun houses with rhododendron forests above. This small gonpa with 40-50 nuns has an intense and absorbing puja from 6:00-7:30 every night. No formal lodge or camping area exists, but you can camp in the gonpa yard and use its kitchen with permission. Or there is a newly built monastery with basic accommodation without a restaurant, but one can eat whatever gets cooked for nuns.

The panorama of the mountains in all directions is incredible, and it may be one of the highlights of your trekking in Nepal. Spend the night in a tented camp or the monastic accommodation.

A 7-hour trek.

The trail is poorly marked. The path goes up the valley on a rocky and indistinct track through the forest. Cross the Laudang Khola River to the west bank on a wooden bridge and climb steeply through virgin pine and rhododendron forests to a ridge. There is a temporary hut in a mid-height Kharka. The trail continues behind sheds, then goes up into a dry bed with birch jungle and eventually emerges on the grassy meadow behind the lateral moraine of the Toro Gompa glacier. Continue climbing past temporary yak shelters, and we find a path in the moraine wall that gives magnificent views of the mountain cirque.

It takes about 3 hours to reach Mount Ganesh Himal Base Camp 4200m. The altitude can make this day difficult for some, but the wild forest and views make it an exceptional trip.

We return to Gumba Lungdang by retracing our steps and joining the rest of the staff. In the afternoon, we can observe the puja of the night. Then, spend the night in a tented camp or the monastic accommodation.

A 6-hour trek.

Descend from Gumba Lungdang and cross the Laudang Khola at Dumje and stay on the southern bank of the Shiar Khola. There are no hostels or Bhatti in Dumje. Climb over some deep gorges and wobbly bridges and arrive at picturesque Ripchet 2470m. Take time to look around at this fertile valley with Chortens in the fields backed by pine forests. Descend the steep stairs to the Ghumlong Bhatti, 2130m on the river, with some good lodges. Then climb again through pristine temperature forest to Lokpa 2240m.

A 5-hour trek.

We continue from Lokpa along an exposed path to the Nyak Phedi, where the trails to Ghap and Tsum branches. Turn right, cross the Budi Gandaki, and arrive at a tea house at Nyak Phedi, where we can rest with tea or lunch, taking a last look toward the Tsum Valley.

We enter a narrow gorge with loose tracks up and down. Then cross over to the east bank and back to the west bank over an overhanging suspension bridge. Next, we enter Nupri, ‘the mountains of the west, through the bamboo forests to Pewa and Deng village 1800m, inhabited by the Gurungs who practise Buddhism. Just past Deng, cross back to the east bank, climb to Rana 1980m and pass the road to Bhi 2130m—the river roars below except where a mountain landslide has created a massive dam.

The walk goes in and out of canyons, crosses the Serang Khola River from the north and climbs steeply again before finally circling at Ghap 2160m. The walls of Mani here and onwards to Bhimthang show intricately engraved carvings of various Buddhas in meditation, incised into the local hard stone by a family of Bhi carvers.

A 5-hour trek.

Our path enters a beautiful fir and rhododendron forest with many birds, staying on the south bank, crossing north over a bridge with a narrow canyon roaring below and travelling back to the south bank on the second bridge with grey langurs (monkeys) looking on. The main trail now climbs well-made stairs, but a shortcut to the right just after the bridge and along the river bank is much quicker and further through the magnificent pine forest. Arrive at the neat village of Namrung 2660m after about 1.5 hours from Ghap, with shops and a restaurant.

Take a walk in the village, and see traditional carvings painted in colours above a walkway. The architectural feature of upper Nupri starts from here: several houses gathered around a shared courtyard and cattle shelters on the ground floor, with heavy wooden tiled roofs.

A 4-hour trek.

The trek starts passing fields and houses and enters rhododendron, spruce, and oak forest before climbing to Lihi 2900m in 45 minutes, with stupas and farm fields within Yak herder huts and shelters and a close-up view of Ganesh Himal and Himal Chuli. Next, the trail descends to a side valley of Simnang Himal with a close-up view of Ganesh Himal. We then cross the Sho with an extraordinary view of Manaslu, Manaslu North, Naike and Lho villages. Lho is a big village with about 80 households, 2 monasteries, stupas, mani-walls and a school. At Lho Gaon, enjoy close views of the towering north face of Manaslu and visit the Ribung Monastery, a famous monastery in the region with numerous Chorten and Mani.

A 5-hour trek.

In the morning, we visit the biggest monastery of Lho, with about 100 monks. Exit the Lho village following the river on the right bank with a view of Peak-29. After about two hours of climbing through the forest, the trail takes us to the village of Shyala. Shyala is beautiful with views of Peak 29 or Ngadi Chuli, Himal Chuli, Phungi, Manaslu and its massive glacier straight ahead, and now Ganesh Himal is far at the end as we are heading northwest. Shyala is a village with about 60 households and several good lodges. The village is prosperous with a monastery, several ancient mani-wall and Chortens.

From Shyala, a 1:30 hours walk takes us to Sama Gaon town with magnificent views of Mount Manaslu. Sama Gaon is one of the largest villages in this region. The inhabitants are mostly farmers who grow what they can in this rough terrain and cold climate, but the main ones are buckwheat, wheat, barley, potatoes, and some vegetables. The locals reach the border with Tibet in one day. It is one of the ancient salt trade routes between Nepal and Tibet. People around the upper Manaslu valley are descendants of the southwest of Tibet, way back more than 2000 years. The custom and culture are no less similar to Tibetan predecessors.

From here, it is only half an hour to reach our camp at Sama Gompa (only if we are taking a camping trek), just above the village of Samagaon. Set up our camp next to the monastery and visit the Sama Gompa, one of the region’s main Nyingma (red hat sect) monasteries.

Rest day for acclimatization and local excursion. Sleep and relax and take a late breakfast or as you wish; an early wake-up benefits sunrise colours on the summit of Manaslu and around. Before lunch, hike to a small hill with Pungyen monastery offering great views of the glaciers. Or consult with your guide and take an optional excursion to Manaslu Base Camp (4,800m.) with a packed lunch, about 5 hours.

A 4-hour trek.

From Sama Gaon, the trail again descends to meet Budi Gandaki and follows it to a bridge to cross the site stream. Passing several mani-walls with thousands of Buddhist mantra carved stones, come over through Himalayan Juniper and birch forest to Kermo Kharka (Nay/Yak shed), where the trail descends to Budi Gandaki and crosses a wooden bridge with a steep climb to Samdo. The day’s trek is a pleasant walk of four hours to reach Samdo, the last village of Manaslu Valley. The elevation, mountain atmosphere, and dry air make the walk slower than earlier in the lower valleys. Though the surrounding is beautiful, every direction is filled with mountains and valleys, making every rest time a photographic moment.

We can see the main road to Tibet through the Lajyang La 5098m slope to the valley on the right. The road to Larke La is ahead on the left. The road from Tibet is closed, but timber stocks are being carried to Samdo by pending yak resumption of trade. The nearest Tibetan town is only a day away, and you can have Chinese and Tibetan beer and food at Samdo.

A 4-hour walk.

Today, we leave the last village of upper Manaslu Valley, descend to meet the Budi Gandaki River, cross the wooden bridge, and gradually climb to the Larke Phedi. Finally, the walk leads to the end of the valley facing incredible views of the snow-capped peaks of Manaslu; for locals, Manaslu is Kutang Kang.

The walk continues crossing two icy streams and reaching Larke Phedi, also known as Dharmasala (travellers’ rest house/shade). Larke Bazaar with a ruined town still known as Larke Bazar or an old fairground. In the past, the Tibetans, Nepalese and Sherpas from Namche Bazar (Everest Zone) came here for trade, giving this place a famous name. At Larke Phedi, the afternoon is free for short walks and rest. However, the next day requires an early morning start with a long climb to cross Larke La Pass and reach Bhimthang (Bemathang) in the Manang areas.

An 8-hour trek.

From Larke Phedi, an early morning walk leads through a steeper climb over the moraine of rocks and boulders, following north of Larke glacier, with grand views from Cho Danda with Larke Peak, clear glacier, beautiful valleys, glacial lakes and a range of Himalayan fauna and flora. Finally, a long but gradual ascent brings us to the top of Larke La, adorned with thousands of colourful Buddhist prayer flags! From the top of Larke La, there is an excellent panorama of Himlung, Cheo Himal, Kang Guru and Annapurna II, Larke Peak, and other peaks.

After Larke Pass, we descend over the moraine to the west, on the right-hand side of a deep ravine, then drop steeply down a scree road. Some sections of snow or ice make the walk treacherous. Then, finally, make a long descent over loose gravel to a more welcome level area with grassy moraine, where we feel more relieved.

The track now heads to the left of the large and sometimes rocky lateral moraine into a widening and beautiful valley to picturesque Bhimthang (original name is Bemathang) 3520m, a 1400m descent in about 3hrs. The views during the descent are enormous – icefalls and mountains in every direction, a glacial lake (Pongkar Tal) between the Pongkar and Salpudanda glaciers, and the joining of these two glaciers with a third glacier to form the Salpudanda Glacier, whose lateral moraine towers over Bhimthang (Bemathang). Bhimthang (Bemathang) means the meadow of sand, it is a lovely place lying on a vast green valley with several good lodges adorned with prayer flags and a view of the looming Manaslu. The area surrounded by Himalayan Juniper, tall green rhododendron, pines, and oaks is one of the famous rhododendron sanctuaries in Nepal.

A 5-hour walk.

Breakfast and stroll around to find views of your preference. A nearby ridge provides a grand view of Manaslu, Lamjung, Himlung and Cheo. From Bemathang, enjoy a much-relaxed downhill walk, cross the Yak pasture meadow, cross a bridge over the Dudh Khola, and enter a rhododendron forest to reach Karche, a high-altitude cultivated land. Cross the lush cultivated field and a steep climb over a ridge at a big sweeping arc at a riverbank. A short walk reaches a small clearing, amid wood, at Gho, a small cattle and yak herders’ summer pasture, where we make our overnight stop. Gho is a temporary settlement with four good lodge accommodations to serve trekkers.

A 3-hour walk and a 4-hour drive.

The last day of the trek! A pleasant walking downhill through a beautiful forest reaches Tilje village, a nice place beside the raging Marysangdi River. From Tilje, the last climb brings us to cross a suspension bridge over the Marshyangdi River and reach Dharapani. This village is located at the junction of the classic Annapurna Circuit Trail and Around the Manaslu Trekking route and is linked with Kathmandu by a motorable road.

The walking ends here, and we stop for lunch. After a marvellous adventure around Manaslu, we take about 4 hours driving to shorten the driving distance to Kathmandu and complete our holidays in the Himalayas with much pleasure. The road mostly follows the Marysangdi River and passes through Taal Besi, Chamje, Jagat, Ngadi, Bulbule, and Besisahar with terraced paddy fields. Besisahar is a large town and the headquarters of the Lamjung district.

A 6-hour drive.

Breakfast and drive to Kathmandu. The Dharapani to Besisahar is by Jeep drive, and Besisahar to Kathmandu is by car, Landcruiser or Hiace van or Bus, depending on the number of persons travelling together.

From Beshisahar, the drive leads past many farm villages and towns and joins the main highway of Kathmandu and Pokhara at Dumre. Then continue a busy road back to Kathmandu.

A reserve day to make sure of a trouble-free itinerary. If all goes well, use the extra day to visit some of the medieval towns of Kathmandu, such as Bhaktapur, Patan, Boudhanath Stupa and Swayambunath Stupa, some of not to miss sites in the Kathmandu valley when you are already here.

Breakfast and the rest of the day are leisure on your own. The Representative of Happy Feet Nepal will arrive at your hotel with transport three hours before your departure flight time. Get escorted from the hotel to the International Departure Terminal, see off formalities, and go through the immigration and departure.