Mount Manaslu, 8163m above sea level, the eighth-highest mountain in the world, is located in the Mansiri Himalayan Range of Nepal, in the west-central part of the country. Mount Manaslu was first climbed on the 9th of May in 1956 by a Japanese expedition, which made it one of the favourite mountains of Japanese climbers; since then, it has always been a Japanese mountain.
Mount Manaslu (26,781 ft/8,163 m), the eighth-highest peak in the world, is renowned as an ideal first 8000-meter expedition after Mount Cho Oyu from the Tibetan side. The Northeast Ridge expedition route on Manaslu offers a challenging yet achievable objective. The Manaslu Northeast Ridge route combines moderate technical climbing with the considerable physiological test of extreme Himalayan altitude, making it a classic stepping stone for climbers aspiring to higher Himalayan giants like Everest or other Peaks.
Height & Rank: 8,163 meters / 26,781 feet (8th highest in the world).
Primary Route: Northeast Ridge / North-East Face.
Technical Nature: Considered moderate for an 8000er, primarily involving snow slopes, glacier travel, and sections of fixed-line climbing. The terrain between Camps 1 and 2 is notably steeper.
Standard Season: Post-monsoon autumn (Mid-August to October).
Climbing Duration: 35 to 45 days, counting from arrival in Kathmandu, approach to Manaslu Base Camp, acclimatization rotation climb, summit bid, back to Kathmandu, and departure from Nepal.
Success & Risk: Manaslu has a positive success rate of above 60%. Until 2023, the mountain records over 3,300 ascents and approximately 90 fatalities, with avalanches being a primary hazard.
The standard expedition follows a classic Himalayan acclimatization pattern: a several-day trek involving a high pass. After a trek (or a helicopter flight) to Sama Gaun or Base Camp at ~4,800m, each mountaineering team establishes a series of higher camps and exercises an acclimatizing rotation climb. The climber uses fixed ropes from Camp 1 upwards to the summit and back. Compared to Mount Everest, summit day on Manaslu is shorter, but it culminates in a steep snow arête to the top.
A sticking point: For several years, there has been controversy over the “True Summit of Manaslu.” In 2022, the Himalayan Database clarified that most reported ascents did not reach the highest point or the current true summit of Mount Manaslu. These days, most expeditions prioritize reaching the True Summit, a factor you may want to discuss with us.
Physical & Technical Prep: Exceptional fitness is mandatory. Prior high-altitude experience on peaks above 6000 metres in Nepal, or on Mount Denali or Mount Aconcagua (6,000-7,000m), is strongly recommended. Proficiency with crampons, ice axes, and fixed-line climbing (ascending/rappelling) is required. One needs to focus on physical training at least 6-12 months in advance.
Apart from climbing Mount Manaslu, the Manaslu Circuit trekking trail is popular among trekkers. The permanent snow line remains above 5,000 metres. The lower valley is rich with exclusive types of dominant forests fed by snow and regular rains from June to September. The entire region is declared the Manaslu Conservation Area as the Annapurna Conservation Area to the west of Manaslu and well protected. The Manaslu region is a sanctuary for many endangered Himalayan wildlife, including Pandas and over 110 species of birds, 33 mammals, 11 butterflies and reptiles. The Manaslu Conservation Area is an important habitat for the snow leopard, grey wolf, musk deer, blue sheep and the Himalayan Tahr. Gurung, Chumbas and Nupripas mainly inhabit the area, the Mongolian tribes practising Buddhism.
Arrive in Kathmandu, clear customs and immigration formalities, and claim your baggage, which takes some time. Upon arrival, receive a traditional welcome from a Happy Feet Mountaineers representative, then transfer to the hotel. Arrive at the hotel, and the rest of the day is free, with optional excursions (not included), or you can ask to organize any of the tours or stroll through its vibrant streets.
Kathmandu, the capital and heart of the country, is home to three medieval cities that symbolize everything in Nepal. Having lived through several Buddhist and Hindu ruling dynasties, the culture and society of Kathmandu Valley have evolved to give it more than just a unique feature. Today, it is an urban city, still rapidly growing, with its ancient myths and testimony to the greatness of the people who have lived there for time immemorial.
A completely free day to do last-minute shopping and repacking the bags to base camp properly. The mountaineering team leader will need to visit the department of the ministry of tourism to sign the document related to the mountaineering permit and responsibilities.
An 8-hour drive.
The trip begins with an exciting overland journey to Besisahar town, the headquarters of Lamjung district. From Besisahar, switch to a Jeep and drive on a dirt road past Khudi, Bulbule, Ngadi, Syange, and Chemche, and to Tal Besi village, following the Marsyangdi River upstream. The drive takes us through terraced fields and deep river valleys with different views. Tal Besi is a beautiful place for an overnight stop, with several good lodges and a stunning waterfall.
A 5-hour trek.
From Tal Besi, the trail follows the Marsyangdi valley upstream through a narrow gorge, crossing several dispersed settlements and beautiful waterfalls, and reaching Khotro. Shortly after, cross a suspension bridge and trek uphill to Nache village. Nache is a Gurung village and sits high above the Marshyangdi River. The Nache village is prosperous, with a large cultivating field. Have a refreshing rest, take in the surroundings, cross another suspension bridge, and enjoy a beautiful walk through the pine forest, traversing Tilche, another big village, on the bank of the Dudh Khola (Milky River).
A 5-hour trek.
Register your mountaineering, trekking, and Manaslu Conservation Area entry permits, begin the trek along the Dudh Khola (Milky River) valley, and walk on a newly opened wide track. Then continue a lovely walk in nature and reach Gowa, at a river junction. Gowa is a small village in the Gurung community, with fertile land fed by Dudh Khola, and is developing into an excellent overnight stop with some lodging facilities; stop for a refreshing drink and rest. Then a short trek to Suti Khola, stopping for a hearty lunch and rest, and enjoying a beautiful walk through the Himalayan landscape. The afternoon hike takes about 3 hours to reach Yak Kharka (Yak Shed) amid a beautiful rhododendron forest. If you trek here during spring, the area up to Bemathang (Bhimthang) is one of the rhododendron sanctuaries of Nepal, offering a lifetime memory.
A 6 hours excursion.
Enjoy a leisurely wake-up and have breakfast. Then, take a beautiful day excursion to Manaslu Base Camp, which takes about 6 hours round-trip with a packed lunch. After about an hour’s walk from Yak Kharka, through a dense rhododendron forest, leaving the main trail to Bemathang, cross a river, follow the Purdi River for about another hour, and reach Manaslu Base Camp. The site offers 360-degree views, including the northwest face and spur of Manaslu, Peak-29 of 7,871 metres, and Pungi Himal of 6,538 metres.
A 5-hour trek.
Another leisurely day. Enjoy a leisurely wake-up and have breakfast. Then, retrace the same trail we took yesterday to hike up to Manaslu Base Camp for an hour. The forest ambience at this altitude is lovely. The picturesque Bhimthang (original name is Bemathang, which means the meadow of Sand in the Tibetan/Nupri language), at 3520m, is a lovely place lying in a vast green valley with several good lodges adorned with prayer flags and a view of looming Manaslu. The area, surrounded by Himalayan Juniper, tall green rhododendron, pines, and oak forest, is one of the famous rhododendron sanctuaries in Nepal. The significant views from here are the northeast face of Mount Manaslu, the south face of Pungi Hima, and Cheo Himal.
An essential acclimatising or resting day, complemented by a beautiful place. After breakfast, take a short hike to Ponkkar and Nayamlo Tso in the morning and enjoy the stunning scenery of vast glaciers fed by Kang Guru, Gyaji Kang 7100m, Nemjung Himal 7140m, and Himlung Himal 7126m. The two big glacial lakes, Ponkkar and Nayamlo Tso, lie between the Pongkar and Salpudanda glaciers. These two glaciers join the main glacier and form the Salpudanda Glacier, whose lateral moraine beautifully towers over Bhimthang (Bemathang). Enjoy a lovely exploratory excursion deep into the Himalayan glaciers, then return to Bemathang for an overnight stay.
An 8-hour trek.
The morning starts with a gradual climb, passing some rocky lateral moraine. The views to the northwest, toward the Salpudanda Glacier, with Ponkhar Lake, icefalls, and mountains in every direction, are impressive. As the valley narrows, the trail ascends to Larke La through sections of scree, snow, and ice, revealing the pure nature of the Himalayas. The top of Larke La is adorned with thousands of colourful Buddhist prayer flags, and the views are significant of Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal, Kang Guru, Annapurna II, the Larke Peaks, and other peaks. The trail then descends for a long way to Larke Phedi through a rocky, boulder-strewn moraine, enjoying the grand scenery of a new and beautiful valley welcoming you. As you approach the north of Larke Glacier from Cho Danda, views of Larke Peak, a clear glacier, beautiful valleys of Manaslu, glacial lakes, and a range of Himalayan fauna and flora are stunning. Then a short descent to Lapke Phedi, also known as Dharmasala (travellers’ rest house/shade).
Larke Phedi, or Larke Bazaar, is a ruined town still known as Larke Bazar or an old fairground. In the past, the Tibetans, lowland Nepalese, and Sherpas from Namche Bazar (Everest Zone) came here for trade, giving this place a famous name.
A 5-hour trek.
Beautiful trekking, walking down to Samdo village, the last uppermost village of the Manaslu valley. The trail crosses two icy streams and a wooden bridge, then reaches Samdo, offering incredible views of the snow-capped peaks of Manaslu (for locals, Manaslu is Kutang Kang). The afternoon trek is a 3-hour walk that starts with a steep descent to the Budi Gandaki River, crosses a wooden bridge, and reaches the Yak Herders’ Sheds at Kermo Kharka. Next, pass Himalayan Juniper bushes, Birch forest, and several mani-walls with thousands of Buddhist mantra-carved stones until we reach Sama Gaon. The views in all directions are indescribable.
Sama Gaon is one of the largest villages in this region. The inhabitants are mostly farmers who grow what they can in this rough terrain and cold climate, with the main crops being buckwheat, wheat, barley, potatoes, and some vegetables. The locals reach the border with Tibet in one day. It is one of the ancient salt trade routes between Nepal and Tibet. People around the upper Manaslu valley are descendants of southwest Tibet, way back more than 2000 years. The customs and culture are no less similar to those of Tibetan predecessors.
A 4-hour trek.
Take a leisurely breakfast and walk to our prime destination, the Manaslu Base Camp, from where the ascent begins to the Summit of Mount Manaslu. On the way, you will see the peaceful Birendra Lake and arrive at Manaslu Base Camp for a hearty lunch. The Manaslu base camp, with beautiful views of the Himalayas, lies on a rocky moraine, as most mountaineering base camps do. The base camp is established before climbing members arrive; therefore, you get a warm welcome from your climbing Sherpas and basecamp staff, with a warm cup of juice/hot beverage, followed by snacks. Then get assigned to your tent and hand over your duffel bags with your climbing gear, lunch, and rest.
The Puja ceremony at the Manaslu Base Camp is prioritised to allow the climbing Sherpa guides to fix the higher camps and routes and to deposit essential climbing material, meals, and oxygen in the respective camps. The puja ritual is to solicit the local deities’ permission for peaceful, obstacle-free climbing.
Manaslu Camp I is set at 5,800m and takes 4 hours. Manaslu Camp II is 6,400m and requires 5 hours of climbing (involves some technical sections). Manaslu Camp III at 6,800m, 2-3 hours climb, the shortest camp. Manaslu Camp IV at 7,500m, the last camp before summiting Manaslu, is a 3-hour climb. Summit of Manaslu at 8,163m, 12-15 hours of climbing and descent to Camp III. (The climbing begins at around 01:00 a. m., targeting the summit reach at 7-9 a.m. The return from the Summit of Manaslu to Camo III takes about 4 hours. Descend to Manaslu Base Camp.
A 3-hour trek.
Leisurely wake up and have breakfast. Farewell hugs to your climbing sherpa guides, kitchen staff, and fellow climbers, and retrace your steps back to Sama Gaon. Arrive for lunch and check into a lodge. The rest of the day is free; if you wish to take a local walk or visit, your guide will always be nearby, so just let him know.
A leisurely wake, breakfast, and preparation for a short, panoramic flight to Kathmandu. The Helicopter arrives and enjoys a short, scenic flight to Kathmandu. Upon landing, a representative from Happy Feet Nepal will welcome you back and transfer you to your hotel. Get distributed to the rooms, and the rest of the day is free.
The expedition team leader must visit the Ministry of Tourism to sign the relevant document. Other members are free to complete their last-day activities.
Breakfast and the rest of the day is leisure on your own. The Representative of Happy Feet Mountaineers arrives at your hotel with transport three hours before your departure flight time. Get escorted from the hotel to the International Departure Terminal; see off formalities, go through the immigration and departure.
