Mt. Everest Northeast Ridge
Comparing to the southeast ridge climbing route from Nepal the north face or the northeast ridge from Tibet is much easier and shorter route to reach to the summit of Mount Everest. The southeast ridge base camp is reached with a 40 minutes flight from Capital of Nepal and then 8 days trek while the northeast ridge base camp at Rongbuk is reached in three days easy drive.
But most of the mountaineering teams to Tibet first make an acclimatizing trekking and climbing trip in Nepal and then fly to Lhasa, the capital of Tibet, or drive via Kodari, the Nepal Tibet border, to reach to the northeast ridge base camp of Everest.
The northeast ridge route itinerary begins from Kathmandu, the group may join also in base camp but most of the members groups in Kathmandu and gets introduced with their climbing Sherpas, guide and kitchen staff. From Kathmandu we drive to Kodari, cross the Tibetan border and arrive to Zangmu.
For Nepali, Zhangmu is called Khasa. For Tibetan it is better known by the name of Dram. It is a small settlement clinging to a hillside 10 kilometres from the Friendship Bridge that crosses the Bhotekoshi River. Zhangmu is a major trading point between Nepal & Tibet. The hills around are heavily wooded with many waterfalls in summer and impressive ice formation in winter.
After a night stop at Zhangmu we drive 30 kilometres up to a small town known as Nyalam or Nyalmu. For most of the tour and trekking or pilgrimage group to Kailash this place is the base camp, where one spends at least two nights for acclimatizing purpose. Nyalmu/Nyalam is also known as 'Kuti' to Nepalese traders. From ancient times it is an important trading centre. There is also a sacred cave of the sage Milarepa. As others we will also spend two nights in Nyalmu and make side trip to Milarepa cave.
Our next acclimatizing stop will be at Tingri which is also considered the base camp of Mount Cho-Oyu because the Cho-Oyu base camp is situated in a distance of one hour drive. We will stop here two more nights for acclimatization and then drive to Rongbuk and to Base camp.
When we arrive to base camp our camp will be ready and the Sherpa friends will be waiting for our arrival. Next morning is the important day for Puja Ceremony as it is the tradition of Sherpa climbers. Here we normally request to Lama Sange, a gentle monk from the cave monastery at Rongbuk who lived there since last 19 years, for a special blessing and puja ritual to please the local deities and request for a peaceful and safe expedition for all members.
After Puja, the climbing Sherpas begin their work and the members will have three resting days at BC. The expedition supplies are carried to ABC by Yak and after ABC by Sherpa in different camps above ABC.
The summit push is made from the Camp III (at 8,230 metres) with 9 to 11 hours of climbing in the night, normally the summit is achieved at around 6 A.M. and with a maximum stopover of 40 minutes on summit then we rush down to Camp II and then continue down next day.
- Chinese Base Camp at 5,180 m (16,990 ft)
- Intermediate Camp at 6,100 m (20,000 ft)
- Advanced Base Camp at 6,500 m (21,300 ft)
- Camp I (North Col) at 7,010 m (23,000 ft)
- Camp II at 7,775 m (25,500 ft)
- Camp III at 8,230 m (27,000 ft)
Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu, meet our representative & transfer to .
Day 02: At leisure in Kathmandu, administrative formalities.
Day 03: Final expedition preparation in Kathmandu.
Day 04: Drive early the morning to Nayapul (borderland) & commence trek to Pangla school.
Day 05: Trek to the 2nd day's at Listi (2345m). 4.5 hrs walk.
Day 06: Trek to Bagam (2800m). 3 hrs walk.
Day 07: Trek to Maneguldung (3710m). 6hrs walk.
Day 08: Trek to the lake Bhairav Kunda (4145m). 3-4 hrs walk.
Day 09: Now we really gain height to Geyul Kharka (4720m). 6hrs walk.
Day 10: Trek to Dongbuk Kharka (5120m). 5-6 hrs walk.
Day 11: Return trek to Zom Zom (4085m). 5 hrs walk.
Day 12: Trek to Tashithang (Sherpa gaon/village-2515m). 5-6 hrs walk.
Day 13: Trek to Larcha bridge and then to the road head to Eco-resort.
Day 14: Depart to the friendship bridge at Kodari & further drive to Zhangmu (Tibet)- 7,546ft).
Day 15: Drive to Nyalam (12303ft).
Day 16: Drive to Thingri (14,764ft).
Day 17: Drive to Everest Base (16,640ft).
Day 18-59: Ascent of Mt. Everest via the North East Ridge.
Day 60: Packing up at Base .
Day 61: Drive Everest Base to Nyalam (12,303ft. / 3,750m).
Day 62: Exit Tibet, drive to Kathmandu (4,429ft. / 1,350m)
Day 63: At leisure in Kathmandu/independent activities.
Day 64: Transfer to airport for final departureTransfer to airport for final departure.
All related Airport / hotel / airport transfers
Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on B&B basis (4 stars Category
Kathmandu / Lukla / Kathmandu airfare both for member and staff
Full board service Kathmandu to Kathmandu
All necessary expedition material transport (Lukla / BC / Lukla) by yaks or porters and all their expenses
BC & ABC Nepali Cooks with equipment, wages, insurance
Dining and kitchen tent in ABC with high altitude cook
1 to 1 member to climbing Sherpa ratio with equipment, wages, insurance
All mountain tents provided. Single Tent at BC and 2 people to a three-men tent above BC
Gas heaters in the dining tent & solar panel power available at BC
Dining Tables and chairs
Climbing Permit and all necessary permit
Ice fall route maintenance fee
Radio walkie-talkie set for climbers and Sherpas, including permit charges
EPI Gas with burner and cooking pot set
High altitude food with personal pack
5 cylinders of oxygen (brand new Poisk) per climber with mask and regulator set
3 cylinders of oxygen (Refilled) per climbing Sherpa with mask and regulator set
Liaison Officer charges including airfare and insurance
Shower tent at BC
Toilet tent at BC & CII
Gamow Bag at CII
Satellite telephone (per minute rates apply)
Travel insurance (Should include helicopter evacuation as well)
International air tickets
Nepal entry visas ($100)
Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
Personal climbing equipments
Expenses of personal natures
Tips (you should allow up to $1000 in tips for Everest summiters)